Rumcajs

G'day mate, Uhm, I don't think so, the 5" shocks are just too long and you will have more success with 3" shocks on 2" coils. Regards

Fitted dash cam today, one of these Street Guardian units ==> The video quality is unbelievable. For those interested --> https://streetguardian.info/sg9665gc-full-hd-gps-dvr.html B/R

Needle lift sensor is the part of the no: 1 injector. I suggest you take the car to the diesel specialist. Regards

G'day mate, That is indeed very loud banging. I'm not familiar with Spartan unit but I have installed a clone aka LOKKA from 4WD Systems in my rig. Did you follow the installation instructions to the letter? It is possible that the internal clearance in the unlocking segment is not suffficient hence the issue when it needs to unlocks. If the measurements worked and everything is correct I'd contact Spartan people. Normally, these kind of units operate in this fashion and can have louder clicking/banging but yours does appear a bit rougher I guess. Regard

G'day mate, Typicaly low ICV% can be caused by a lack of fuel in the injection pump. Fuel is used for hydraulic action of the timing device so any lack of it will drop ICV%. On that note, if you have blocked filter or priming pump on top of the fuel filter housing (very common) which is allowing air in to fuel system you will have the symptoms as experienced. I'd start to investigate those first. Cheers

Finally fitted the fuel cooler, thanks Kenco Racing QLD and Mr Nissan providing some spare mounting holes and Volvo Trucks Corporation Volvo FH cab engine air intake piping rubber spacer it was a breeze to install. I can see fuel temperatures actually going down when engine load is off instead of just climbing up and up.... B/R

Hi All, Merry Xmass and all the best in the New Year 2016. Have a safe one. Regards

GU doesn't use relays for low or high beams, the stalk switch activates them directly and gets fed by two 15 A fuses. I have no idea how your spot lamps are wired up but if its the usual DIY job then the power is taken straight from the high beam circuit which could mean too much load so only one head lamp lights up that is why if you do it slowly it works I'm guessing here. Do the lights work correctly if you disconnect that switch with head lamp symbol on it (is it Nissan or aftermarket) or disable spotties? Normally spot lamps would be controlled via separate relay which then supplies power via separate fuse and is controlled from high beam signal with in series connected spot lamp switch. So no high beams no spotties, high beams on but spot lamps switch off (relay not activated) no spot lamps illuminated, you get the idea. It could be controlled another way but lets not complicate the issue. Regards Here is an example what it should be wired like:

G'day mate, welcome to the forum.... Hopefully we'll be able to assist you with Xtrail questions even though I'm not that familair with them myself. Regards

Actually going bigger tyres makes it even worse. Regards

Well, join the crowd. This is becoming standard fare from Y61. CrD ZD30 seems to dring like it is a LC200 V8 and yours is not the only one. No one seems to pinpoint the reason but I can tell you right now Nissan $tealer will blame it all on you, if you fit bullbar, if you fit roof rack, if you fit seat covers .....you name it. I'm going to be honest and tell you I wouldn't purchase 2015 Nissan Patrol Y61 with ZD30 engine today even if it was at half price sale. Nissan have absolutely fcuked up this model for good. Engine drinks fuel like mad,(consider that some examples will take it to 17-19 L/100 category) the electronics to aid with stability control completely destroyed the aftermarket suspension fitment/mods and the famous Ni$$an warranty is something to behold. I'm very much doubtful that the fuel eco will improve much, at best you'll be glad when it comes down to 13-14 L. It is insane that such modern fuel injection can't match the old crappy injection pump output .. I just managed to break under 11 L/100 on mine first time ever and that's with all the extras and M/T tyres and 3t constant weight. Regards

Brown Davis is suppose to be a good gear but before you start adding weight consider to have the rear coils towers reinforced as they do bend or worse break tearing of the chassis under the extra weight strain cracking the chassis in the process. ATOC welded in reinforcing brackets are popular choice or bolted ones from Superior engineering can be fitted but those can't be used with LR fuel tanks. I've got them and it is hell to fit too. Regards

It has been done, few years ago we had a big discussion about the exactly same thing on another Nisan forum. Couple of blokes actually did cover their bonnets with streamers or strands of wool and recorded the videos of the action, some with confirmed results some with other surprises. Basically you would need a wind tunnel for proper testing but the string theory ....pun intended, worked well and confirmed the bull bar and bonnet protector do make things worse. Intercooler fan can make some difference but only at lower speeds and needs to be underneath the cooler. I had the fan on mine and TBH I couldn't tell the difference. When it started playing up I removed it, not worth the hassle IMHO. Regards

Did you know that bonnet protector interferes with the air flow to the intercooler scoop? Patrol bonnet scoop is so poorly designed that air will flow in at around 80 km/h + only. However the biggest obstruction/interference is the bull bar. But it looks good. Regards

G'day, welcome to the forum. That clicking would be the front drive/axle shafts CV joints I'm afraid or so it sounds like, especially if you in 4WD and at full lock. You can check youself by jacking the front end up, locking the hubs and turn one wheel at full lock while holding the other side steady if you have open diff or no diff lock. Regards

I have Haines or Ellery's manual can't remember which one as it is permanently in my car but I also have several versions of actual Nissan factory manual. I believe you are a member at nissanpatrol forum so you can download one of the factory manuals from there ===> Patrol manuals and software Regards

That is neat! You want to give us a run down on parts e.g. where from and $$$? Regards

You can certainly try and see what will happen, I'm at a loss to explain why would that cornering lamp unit even affect the indicators because to me it should only be processing the signals for cornering lamps outputs not actually affecting the indicators buit that's the design those monkeys have chosen. Remember these cans are negatively switched so I'd still make sure you have a good ground. Patrols are notorius for earthing issues thanks the Nissan idiot saving money by not including extra earth strap between the body and the chassis. Regards

Hello, There are 4 different version of indicator/flasher circuits depending where you live (typical Nissan). I reckon you have earth/ground issue. Bellow is the description for Australia :

Most switches on the dashboard would have one you can piggy back on to. Wiring colour is usually dark blue and black tracer. If you really desperate use the illumination for/from the ciggie/accessory 12V socket. Regards

Feel free to share your non biased experiences with Prado. Regards

G'day mate, welcome to the forum, What you are describing is at best something related to the brake pad and its interaction with brake rotor. Any wild guesses that it could be a dirt/stone trapped between them, pads worn so badly it jams, jammned caliper piston or its pins, loose caliper all that can stop the friction surfaces from returning properly when pressure is relaxed, possibly even loose wheel bearing as the hub can/wobbles around it grind against the caliper/brake pad? The best course of action would to jack the rear end up on to axle stands, remove the wheel and have a look, it should be blatanly obvious as that sort of grinding would leave some trace behind. I'd certainly do that as a first thing. Regards

I have a switch from Jaycar which just fits in to original slot ==> SPDT ON-OFF-ON rocker switch cut out size 34x21 mm, measure the slots then find switches to fit. Cheers

I've got the same Baintech panel, you had good idea to convert one of the sockets to USB charging output, where did you source USB sockets from? Regards

If I remember correctly got them form Opposite Lock around $90 AUD some years ago.. Cheers