Rumcajs

it is a sad state of affairs mate. I'm certainly not laughing even though it could be funny or has a funny side. Major problem is that all the data captured is available to majority of government agencies with no oversight, no warrant just browse through as you wish. it is also available to some other organizations like RSPCA (WTF for?) local government councils, charities and who knows else. Probably the worst part of it is that they simply trawl through the data to compile dossiers on everyone and then start fishing for slip ups. Like in any other dictatorship or totalitarian establishment so North Korea, China, Saudi Arabia or indeed something closer to your neighborhood Zimbabwe come to mind. These morons call themselves liberals and democrats, its a bad joke perhaps nightmare we were warned about long time ago by the likes of Orwell (1984). It makes former Eastern Europe socialist block including USSR actual democracies as they never had this kind of surveillance and control. I'm so fed up with these pseudo freedoms/democracy and idiotic population unable to see it. Time to give up indeed. Regards

Unless you have lived under a rock or just returned from a very long trip to the Outback the outrages intrusion of Australian government in to individuals privacy has commenced a couple of days ago. In quick summary, every action you do online or using carriage service will be logged and kept for 2 years to be perused at will and most importantly without a court obtained warrant. Australian government agency can now profile and established from the digital crumbs one leaves behind a complete picture of what that person does, who he/she associates, and whereabouts. In another words we are all criminals now to be constantly watched. Nazis or Stasi or KGB could only dream about this kind of surveillance and have it been available to them there will be no freedom left anywhere. Anyway we can fight back so here it is ===> How to dodge the mandatory data retention scheme Further reading to often used phrase "nothing to hide nothing to fear" mantra, btw first used by Nazi propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels. Nothing to hide argument Sad times for Western democracy!

Howdy mate, Indeed, 4WDing is expensive hobby to have...welcome to the forum and feel free to share your adventures. Cheers

G'day mate, welcome the forum. Feel free to contribute in any capacity you see fit. Best regards

Well you and me both. Its a lottery and most of these units are either overpriced and lacking in what you want or have everything you want but are cheap and nasty Chinese brands. Biggest problem with them all is that they overheat. IMHO all in one units are compromise so as the old saying goes:"jack of all trades, master of none" I drove a car (Jeep) with built in GPS in centre console, it was a nightmare to use/look at, constantly eyes of the road not good. You want GPS which is at your eye level in front of you so a quick glance at it is all it takes. As for reverse camera I'm seriously considering integraded internal rear vision mirror with led reverse cam screen and forward recording camera and GPS too! http://linuxgizmos.com/rear-view-mirror-runs-android-4-2-and-has-dual-cameras/ If you are looking for dual head unit get pure Android unit with wide viewing capable fixed screen not the flip up one. Forget WinCE based products its a dead end. Ebay is full either of them. or see this mob ==> http://www.autopumpkin.com/pure-android-4-2-twin-din-universal-nissan-car-dvd-gps-navigation-with-6-2-inch-lcd-hd-capacitive-touch-screen-3g-wifi-bluetooth-support-obd2.html or this, located in Melbourne ==> http://www.digoptions.com/Platinum_Universal_2_Din_GPS_Navigation_Multimedia_p/avn-u02.htm They offer a good support too. Other then that see what premium companies like Polaris or Pioneer will set you back at while short on features and with locked down WinCE dead end platform. Cheers

I do have ones but they obviously bolt on from underneath of the chassis where OEM Nissan tie down hook is there are prepared holes on the others side with welded nuts as well on mine. There are none on the side of the chassis on RHS unfortunately. However I see no point having side mounted plates, I use load equalizer strap too so I don't yank off just one hook. Cheers

Lift kits just raise chassis height and bigger tyres wheels raise both chassis height and ground clearance. In Australia max legal raise allowed without a permit is 50 mm and that includes both chassis/body lift and tyres/wheels increase except in South Australia which is yet to recognize/harmonize Australian VSR especially VSB14 (Vehicle Standards Bulletin) in case of tyres/wheels for 4WD vehicles where increase is only 15 mm to overall nominal diameter unlike others complying to VSB14 50 mm. In either case most people take the liberties so they do 2" lift kit (52 mm) and 1" to 2" (25 -50 mm) tyre/wheel diameter increase so they end up going 100 mm or 4" hence higly illegal, e.g. if your car is equiped with 275/65 R17 which is about 31" going to 285/70 R17 or 285/75 R16 will make it to 33" which is preferred size to most people. In most cases, the sagging OEM suspension and ridiculously small wheels/tyres combo fitted to 4WD these days will hide this 4" increase and only trained eye will pick it up. What manufacturers do is in order to pass all the safety bullchit they fit lower profile tyres and larger wheels for more sure footed ride on asphalt but completely unsuitable in terrain. Exactly opposite to what people buy these cars for in most cases I guess. With the advent of nanny state compulsory ESP/ABS/ESC these mods are almost impossible without affecting the behaviour of the OEM systems as most dealers have no hope or possibility to alter the settings. The best compromise is to gain ground clearance by fitting larger tyres e.g. 33" and keep the suspension OEM and hope the change is recognized by the relevant ECUs. Not always the case. There are a few horror stories around the GU 9 series with ESP/ABS/ESC or whatever NIssan chooses to call these technologies crap interfering profoundly even in the stock form. These things might be great in Falcodores and Corollas/Camrys but in 4WDs they're abomination and counter productive. So the bloody Nissan instead of using 4.8 L brakes across the GU series, it fits lesser ones in ZD30 version and the end result is the shitty brakes. Mind boggling the automakers are but thats what you get when those are run by "bean counters and salesmen" instead of engineers. Cheers

Yeah geraboxes are same just the ratios are different TD42 as well as the diff ratios are different ZD30 has 4.11 while TD has 4.3. Technically it is only the drive gear set which is different ratio and then makes combined/overall ratios for each gear different otherwise the gears for 1-5 are the same. So Drive ..... ZD30 TD42 1.259:1 1.346:1 1st 3.385:1 + drive 4.262:1 4.556:1 2nd 1.95:1 + drive 2.456:1 2.625:1 3rd 1.182:1 + drive 1.488:1 1.590:1 4th 1.0:1 -no drive step down just direct through main shaft 5th 0.676:1 + drive 0.851:1 0.836:1 R 3.15:1 + drive 3.972:1 4.245:1 knowing Nissan they probably changed it around during the GU life as well indeed in 2004 they swapped the ratios around between TD42T and ZD30Di. They also changed diff ratios as well TD42T had 3.9:1 instead 4.11:1 for TD42 with M/T and ZD30 with A/T had 4.375:1 Trying to keep up with this is like wondering what was first: the chicken or the egg! Nissan is well known for deliberately building different batches of Y61 with completely different sets of gear, like what they had lined up next to assembly line. There is no clear pattern to it. The only sure thing was no auto tranny with TD42/T motors in Y61(GU/GR) unlike Y60 (GQ). Cheers

G'day mate, where are you located? There is no Y61 with 4.8 L sold in Australia anymore especially 2016 model. Bigger wheels and lift kits have different set of rules in Australia so maybe where you are located those don't matter as much. Cheers

Easy, you can get Century N70T deep cycle battery as your second unit. Its same wet type flooded with caps so you can check it yourself with hydrometer as required instead of those MF crap things which indicate green but battery is stuffed.... Cheers Also that tray from Downunder is a good find, I also like ==> http://offroaddownunder.com.au/product/gu-patrol-power-panel-12v-acc-dual-usb-with-led-display/

If you can see 6 unscrewable caps then it is standard lead acid wet type. If none just a sight glass/plug then it is maintenace free or MF but still lead acid wet type, I'd be surprised if Nissan fits calcium hybrid unit in Y61. Cheers

I believe if read correctly he trew the TB45 out and put TD42T with auto box in. He hasn't visited for a while.... Cheers For those interest he's got build thread on another forum ==> TB45E auto to TD42T auto conversion

TD42 has a mechanical rev limiter so once warmed up floor it and watch it to cut out if you are brave, anyway max RPM 4600 +/- 50/150. Pretty much the same as ZD30. It is kinda normal especially if the engine has reasonably kays travelled, TD42 boosting to 12 psi is OK. Cheers

Optima AGL/gel battery is completely unsuitable to be mounted in the engine bay, hates heat and vibrations. have a look what type of battery is fitted by Nissan and then fit exactly the same type but deep cycle and try to fit some sort of a heatshield I cooked 4 batteries in 3 years. Patrol's Y61 spot for second battery is very unfortunate one as it gets heated from both sides (exhaust and header/expansion tank). Redarc SBI12 is a good unit as long as it is properly installed and earthed. Mount it on the starter battery side (cooler) as well. Cheers

Yep, 45 mins ride, bloody expensive though $400 AUD return for a car up to 5m length (lucky Patrol is 4.95 m cough.... ) and 2 passengers. Marvelous place, planning to go again this year. Regards

Crickey, nothing is sacred anymore ==> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstairs_Passage

Funny buggers aren't we...

For some reason I like this shot at setting sun in Deep Creek Conservation park near Backstairs passage (stretch of water between Australia's mainland and Kangaroo Island) Cheers

Welcome to the jungle mate! The issue with dual batteries and how to connect them is complex becuase a lot depends on type of batteries, usage and charging method employed. Here is my take on it. The most basic system would be to have voltage sensitive relay/switch which disconnected aux/second battery when voltage drops bellow preset level. The vehicle alternator does all the charging and doesn't really do the best job but tries. The proble in here is that 2 different battery types are usually employed; starter type and deep cycle type. Both have different requierement for charging/discharging hence vehicle alternator struggles to pick which one so the quickest one to be charged gets all the glory, usually starter batery. So typical solution to this problem is thave the second battery completely separate from the vehicle charging system and being charged via DC to DC charger. Good points: second battery is always properly charged subject to certain caveats and no complex heavy wiring required between battery so to speak. Bad points: DC chargers are slow chargers, so a long cruise trip might be fine to recharge the deep cycle batery after overnight stop but not everyone drives for hours on the 4WD trip. The best solution is to have hybrid system that is have both VSR switch for short trips and DC charger for long trips as well as supplemented viua solar for those several days/ a week camping stop. Another point is to have same type batteries which is almost impossible see starter vs deep cycle debate so one vay out of it is to have hybrid batteries whic are both starter and deep cycle in one unit. They're very expensive still but it is the future as more and more manufacturers fit them because the modern carselectrical loads are so varied. The best way to start is to look at the expected usage with a bit of redundancy trown in to the mix and work from there. I haven't mentioned the wet lead acid, lead acid calcium and absorbed glass mat (AGM/gel) type batteries, each of those have different charging requirement and quirks. If your car alternator is not designed for example to deal with calcium and AGM units then having just VSR relay is not ideal in fact bad for your investment in those expensive units. I'd personally give Redarc range a look even though they're bloody expensive. It is still Aussie made. Ctek DC/DC chargers are Chinese made but Swedish designed and half price of Redarc but..... Cheers

G'day Paul, Welcome to the forum, make yourself at home and feel free to share your experiences with 3 Patrols. Regards

Hmm, 7" lift and 35" tyres how do you get that as street/road legal? Lift up the front end, put it in 4wd Hi lock the hubs and try to turn the wheels manually. Patrol diffs. are usually too strong for anything one would trow at them unlike Swiss cheese ones mafe by Yota. If your front diff is knackered it would clunk when you leave the hubs locked in 2WD mode as well. You can always check drive shaft movement by hand turning it back/forth as well with hubs locked in 2WD mode too. Cheers

G'day mate, Have you retightened the drain valve, checked that fuel filter seal is correctly seated, that lower bowl/cap seal is tight? Otherwise it is common for priming pump being faulty. If desperate and have an assistant and good battery, crank and prime at the same time, it should fire after while. Another one is to prefill the filter with clean diesel. Remove outlet hose from filter and pump/prime until fuel comes out properly then refit the hose and finish priming until you feel fair resistance on the primer pump It is also not uncommon that aftermarket filters can be a trouble especially for common rail engines. Choose your poison carefully. I would recheck the filter installation just in case you've missed something. Also priming can take a while especially if there is low fuel level in the tank. Regards

Use just rubber units. Nolathane plastic ones wear out, knock and are not good alernative. Cheers

G'day mate, Welcome to the forum. You don't need extended bump stops, especially for 2" lift. In any case those will impede the flex and limit the axle/wheel travel. Rear ones are between a chassis and the axle housing. Cheers

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. Whether it is the best forum is up to you to decide. This forum can be quiet at times but that doesn't mean that it is deserted. Give it a chance, the small nature of it means there are fewer restrictions and more relaxed atmosphere no trouble makers or trolls in here as with other forums. Feel free to contribute as you wish. Regards