Rumcajs

Thinking of buying Nissan Patrol GU series? Well here is a list to ponder before splashing out on another lemon. Source ==> Nissan Patrol GU online parts and accessories Patrol - Problems Summary: Chassis Cracking Dash Pad Blistering Rear Barn Door Cracking Steering Wheel Wobble Radiator Support Panel Cracking Front Swivel Hub Leak Transfer Case Noise Seat belt sticking Dust Entry Log Book Check ...and that's even before we mention the dreaded ZD30 engine with its grenade reputation. Add to that the famous Nissan customer service and consider being warned! Cheers

Found out that my barn door is cracked, suffers from "the spare wheel mounted on the door and POS Japanese engineering" syndrome. So removed the door carrier bracket and chucked the spare inside for the time being, time to hunt for the rear bar wheel carrier combo and figure out how to fix the crack. More money to waste on the lemon,yay! Also checked the rock sliders/steps fitment all seems good. Cheers

This gotta be one of the best DIY article on winch installation full stop. I'm considering making it my instruction manual once I find the courage and cash to obtain winch. Thanks again for sharing the know how. Cheers

So where on the pedal position do you feel full clutch engagement. Is it early at low position? You need to check if the lever linkage isn't binding and also make sure the bell housing isn't full of mud/crud which doesn't help. Normaly you'll get the clutch slipping as it wears out and take up point moves up on the pedal travel. This sound like something is inhibiting full clutch travel or it could be that you aren't getting the full clutch travel due to hydraulic failure. Cheers

You will find that most shops will not be interested to fit these for you, maybe at best the gauges (boost/pyro) but most will avoid Dawes, Provent etc. if you wee in SA than there are couple of shop doing these now. probably places specializing in 4WD tuning etc might be willing to assist you but it is mostly DIY. Whatever you do don't mention NADS, ask for boost and EGT gauge installations, Provent installation etc. Yo can buy some if not all the bits from this bloke (I believe he is located in Melbourne somewhere) http://stores.ebay.com.au/mcbautopartsau/ he might be of some assistance as to where to get the parts fitted. Cheers

For the amount of cash being asked for one of these tents, having these "small" issues is actually disappointing. Not worth imho no matter how many times it is unpacked. Thanks for the update, it looks like my thoughts on not paying this ridiculous amounts for something which seems suss have been validated. I'm better off buying cheap arse Chinese replica of these and not worry about wear and tear just simply replacing as needed. Thanks again. Cheers

If you want to access the horn, audio controls or remove steering wheel the airbag needs to be removed. Important safety tip here is to disconnect battery/s and wait about 5 mins before tackling the job. 1. Remove plastic cover on either under side of the steering wheel covering airbag assembly screw, 2. You'll need tamper proof Torx T30 to undo the screws (one on either side of the steering wheel) 3. The assembly is now free to be removed, however the airbag, horn audio and cruise control cables if fitted need to be disconnected after the assembly withdrawn sufficiently to obtain access. and Installation is reversal of the procedure with following: After fitment, insert ignition key but leave in off position, open driver and passenger doors and reconnect batteries. Stand outside and turn ignition key on and if everthing is OK airbag light will go out and all is well. Check horn operation, audio and cruise controls if fitted. Disclaimer: Manipulating airbag assembly should be done with caution as it is pyrotechnic device and serious injury or death can result if it triggered due to being mishandled. Never short its wires or contacts or use multimeter to test its circuit. Store in safe open location when not in use.

Well, perhaps not but from statistical point it is absolute eye opening... Cheers

Oh dear, even the LC200 barge is cheaper by 10 bucks a week. Nissan, you've done it again!

IMHO, "catch can" on turgo charged engine is a must, no matter if diesel or petrol. Great read, can't wait for the first drive report. Cheers

OK, I had a bit of search about it even removing the airbag on my own truck and this is what I found. It appears that clock spring/spiral cable is/has extra leads in it to support audio control. What is not good at least on mine is that cabling from clock spring to audio control panel is not there and I couldn't locate one on Nissan's FAST parts system. Also harness from the other side of the clock spring to audio unit is also missing so this ain't as easy as to just obtain switch controls panel and fit. While it is doable it may be way to fiddly and expensive to source all the Nissan terminals and plugs and than make own harness. It simply doesn't make sense when the audio controls on actual unit are only a short reach away. Just too much effort IMHO. Cheers

Awesome stuff, keep up the good work. Cheers

Hi John, Welcome to the forum. Make yourself at home and enjoy. Cheers

Given that your vehicle is fairly recent indeed it may still be under warranty I'd actually call Nissan to find out if you need those parts. You could check yourself if the clock spring plug/socket has spare contacts/terminals in it, that would indicate that it is "audio controls ready". Calling Nissan is probably easier. Cheers Edit: Contacting Ni$$an might not be easier as those incompetent tools will probably request VIN otherwise they can't find their own arses.

Hi there, Welcome to the forum. Its nice to see another member from Addy. Cheers

Hi there. With the limp mode you'll loose all power (no throttle/accelerator). What is getting back to normal means? I suspect that limp and speedo issues are not related however issues (speedo erratic) like that can be related to bad earth or bad connection or failling sensor or its pole wheel. Check speedo plug first. Cheers

I'm not sure what are you referring in regards to Provent but if it is the oil return from Provent you could so long the block still has the hole blanked off by the steel plate. This was removed on later ZD30 blocks (GU4) so I don't have that option. So if you are the lucky one, all you really need is to remove the plate, drill appropriate hole in it, tap the thread, screw in the fitting and refit. Than run the hose from Provent oil return via a check valve (needed because the return is above oil level) so you never need to worry about Provent oil draining. Cheers

How's this for an epic trip? ==> http://www.globatrol.com/

Last time I checked the oil fittings on my 05 ZD30 for oil pressure sender the thread was 1/8 NPT. Also on the RHS oil pressure sender is actually mounted on the "stand off" fitting/pipe which is attached to the block with banjo bolt. I found when I was replacing the sender on mine it too leaked and no matter what I tried I couldn't seal it but it was actually the banjo bolt which became slightly loose/disturbed when I was tightening the sender which was enough to start leaking oil albeit slowly over the sender which appeared as leaking from. To gain access to that fitting I had to drop the starter motor, I replaced two copper washers for it too. What a pain that was to fix! Anyway there is ample room on the LHS of the motor right where the second oil switch is mounted next to oil filter under the turbo charger. That's where I'd mount the extra oil sender for the gauge with male Tee run fitting to accommodate both units. That's where Nissan service people measure oil pressure with master gauge anyway even though it is classed as "low pressure side" according to Nissan as RHS next/above to starter motor is classed as high side. See pics

I'm not sure but anything bellow 1 bar (~14 psi) should be a concern. Does your GU only has one pressure sensor? GU4 series is suppose to have two units. You can test the opening pressure of the sensor the same way I described earlier. It simply breaks contact to ground. I believe the thread size of the sensors is 1/8 NPT. Cheers

That does look low but I'd use calibrated master gauge to confirm actual oil pressure before I start to panic. The Racetech gauge sensor I'd actually test that by rigging it up to compressed air and with calibrated regulator I'd check the output. So like put 10 psi pressure in and read what gauge reads and keep increasing the pressure to its max and confirm that it reads correctly. I'd also check that all the wiring is correct and there are no bad connections/voltage drops/resistance etc. Cheers

Oh well, now you've got it may just as well fix the NADS to it. Not that expensive and Dawes and needle valve will transform it for better. Cheers

You are buying worn out used car, its engine can expire anytime. Unless you are getting it extremely cheap and you are handy with spanners stay away. Cheers

How do you know it is lagging a bit? I'd have it checked by steering specialist to check flow rate and max pressure. Also it could easily be your steering box, internally leaking for example. Cheers

Awesome stuff, gotta pencil in the visit to Victorian high country next. Cheers