Rumcajs

OK, here is some documentation howto trace it straight from Mr Nissan ==> scroll to your relevant model Regards ec.pdf

Here we go, the best thing you can do is to do it yourself, it is not that hard. Maybe try this mob ==> Caboolture Exhaust and Mechanical. I suggest that you also sign up on patrol4x4.com (I think you are there already) and nissanpatrol.com.au You'll get more help there. Regards

Are you sure it is code 12 because that's MAF code and that would be corresponding to the symptoms you are having. Camshaft sensor is code 11. Regards

04 Patrols have what is called fake OBDII plug which is wired in Consult II protocol. So using instructions for OBDII code reading jumper is not going to work. Because of this dodgy Nissan shyte the dedicated OBDII cables don't work either. ECUTalk is monitoring software, it allows you to monitor/see what ECU sees, you can't make any changes to ECU with it. On ECUTalk website ==> http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx the whole saga with Consult II and OBDII is explained including which wire is which, You can use as a guide how to wire your own interface if you are that way inclined. Get it wrong and who knows what will smoke, yet still there is a lot of mucking around to get it working e.g. correct PC drivers, OBDII hardware (plug, pins/terminals aren't that cheap) and you still need USB to Serial chip/board like one from Prolific (FTDI chip) ==> http://www.obddiag.net/usb-2-serial.html You could always buy cheap/cheaper Consult II interface/plug and rewire either its end or make adapter cable to go from Consult to OBDII type. Note: OBDII dedicated scanners don't work with Patrols before 2007 (Common rail versions of ZD30) Honestly, just pay someone else to diagnose your idle issue for you. ECUTalk cabling and software is a great addition to my toolbox, indeed is for people who work on their cars themselves. If you are not one of those than pay someone else as other do. Regards

OK, that's a different story, LOL, carby petrol guzzler...., In that case diesel is definitely an upgrade but stay away from 2.8 L for sure, they're the money pit as far as maintenance is concerned and require great attention to detail which most "modern" mechanics miss these days. Issue with ZD30 is that if you are paying someone else to look after it, it will be very expensive. On top of it they probably wouldn't have a clue how to stop/postpone the grenading judging by your previous post. As the mileage goes up the "failure territory" increases exponentially. I'm not sure buying bog stock ZD30 with 250,000 km on the clock for 15 grand is a good buy. Make sure you have spare 10 grand for new engine on top of it because it isn't going to be if but when it goes bang. I hate to say it but it is unwise move especially because it is like a lottery. If you are unable to do all the mods and maintenance yourself than than you gonna get fleeced while still not guaranteeing the car being anymore reliable. Key is to get ZD30 in low kays, do the mods to preserve it and it will last hopefully. Anyway here is what you need for sure in order: 1. Boost and EGT gauges 2. Catch can 3. Dawes and needle valve 4. EGR block 5. Glow plugs timer 6. Fuel lift pump and spill line return (to save injection pump) 7. Exhaust 8. Intercooler replacement (OEM leak like a sieve) 8. If automatic transmission: line pressure solenoid resistor and lock up clutch mod. There are "regular" fails as well, do search In all honesty I'd "upgrade" to GQ with 4.2 L donk. They can be obtained for as low as 8K-9K. Remember with 3.0 L (ZD30) you are buying built-in failure, with 2.8 L (RD28) you are buying maintenance nightmares. I'd rather buy last chassis based Pajero with 2.8 L turbo diesel donk. Regards

G'day mate. Short answer is keep GQ if it is 4.2 L donk. It will be still going long after grenade has been retired. Personally as an upgrade it is probably comparable "to from under the rain to under the leaking gutter drain". Early GUs with 2.8 L and 3.0 L engines are not worth upgrading afaik they're downgrade from GQ. Properly set up GQ will out do GU everywhere except or unless you are 6'8". Even than space is only marginally bigger. Moe importantly it will be more reliable, cheaper to run and much easier to fix in the bush. The ignorance of the mechanics in regards to ZD30 turbo control being left at the mercy of the ECU is just astounding. It just shows that they have no clue. I'm embarrased to be one of them by association only.... Taking the control away will save the engine, make it more responsive, improves fuel consumption and finally gives more torque where it is needed low to midrange RPMs. ZD30s blow up no matter what transmission they're connected to. For more decent driving experience the auto is the go but in typical Nissan POS design you'll need to mod converter lock control and shift control. Easily done and cheap too. With manual box it is utter pig in the sand to drive, forget city driving unless you wanna feel like a truckie. So if it the reliability you are after than keep the GQ. Regards

You are not suppose to measure against ECU earth! Measure against engine ground as shown in above posted pic. See the warning bellow:

It depends if you have NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft System). Since you are not referring to which vehicle exactly (type/trim/engine model e.g.) If your have a red blinking indicator on top of the dash near windscreen when ignition is off than yes the key has the immobilizer transponder/chip in it. See pic bellow

I think you are reading voltage drop against the earth/ground. If you are using multimeter to measure with "Volts" function/setting in the same line (against earth/ground) than you are measuring what is called voltage drop. To me this suggests bad earth/ground connection unless you have measured against ECU earth. See pic attached on explanation if you have multimeter with buzzer function you can check for continuity and also using resistance function measure actual resistance to ground. Make sure "power" is off when measuring this way. Once you have checked it check all ground connections on the engine and battery and do yourself a favor and install another earth strap between body and the chassis as well. It usually cures a lot of issues and random electrical gremlins. If still not working I strongly suggest to consult/visit Bosch diesel fuel injection specialist, they can connect to the pump and check for internal codes/error which normally don't come up on your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light). Don't waste your time going to Nissan. I have seen this kinda behavior on EDC (Electronic Diesel Control) where if equipped in such way the idle speed can be adjusted by a means of cruise control switches (probably not applicable to Nissan) where default idle speed drops to 400-450 RPM during initial reset activation and than brought up to desired level and saved. I really don't know how it is done on Nissan but one would think that possibly the setting got wiped/reset by some unintended action which by connecting appropriate diagnostic unit the idle speed can be reset/adjusted again. This is normally the case for me when dealing with heavy vehicles diesel control. Regards

So what RPMs you'll get with high idle/warm up switch? It should raise to 1,200 RPM. The standard idle is at 750 RPM. 400 RPM seems way too low. Regards

You can get both the software and cable/interface from ECUTalk website. www.ecutalk.com Follow the instruction on the website how to choose correct type cable interface either Consult II or fake OBD II. Or make your own once you ascertain which which type you need. Some electronic skills are required to make your own interface by getting Prolific USB to serial chip/interface and Consult or OBD plugs/terminals and data cable. ECUTalk made cable just works and they include the software in the package. It is worth the outlay IMHO but I'm a tech so for me it is no brainer. Regards Edit: what happens when you hit the fast idle/warm up switch? Do RPMs rise or not?

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. I don't get this part ==> .....egr blocked (caused problems) now unblocked, I suggest you block it ASAP and deal with the issues (overboost induced limps perhaps?) by fitting Dawes valve and needle valve control to wrestle the control of the turbo away from ECU. It is for the benefit of the engine longevity and power output even though you seem to get reasonable amount out of it if it was all standard. You should read up on NADS thread by Dronus ==> The inter-cooler fan can be a bit of problem, as inter-cooler is mounted on the engine (unlike on CrDs or TD42Ti where its brackets are attached to body) and engine vibrations will rattle the fan in to oblivion. I'm on my second and it is coming out for good as I'm sick of dealing with it.. The fan is only good for slow driving in heavy terrain under high ambient temperatures (beach driving) if over 40 km/h it is not needed. So if you drive long distances in excess of 60 km/h than forget the fan it is just not worth the hassles. If you still insist on it make sure you'll have decent control of it as running it continuously will wear it out in no time as well as it will affect the battery charging rate as Nissan alternator is terrible for that. So fitting adjustable thermal switch with "hysteresis" control (set high and low point of engagement and disengagement) let say kicking in at 50° C and cutting out at 40°C otherwise the constant cycling with just single engagement point 50° C will burn out the relay as it will chatter nonstop. Ideally you want to have the probe inside the inter-cooler on the hottest side so actual air temperature is considered. Getting such probe/control device is not always easy most of us use surface of the inter-cooler as sensing point with Jaycar 50°C surface temp switch which just a workaround nothing else. Cheers

G'day mate, I'm sorry but MAF sensor has no relation to engine idle speed, indeed you can disconnect and it should still idle fine. Standard idle should be at 750 RPM. This looks like injection pump trouble. If you have a laptop and USB/serial interface to Consult II port you could use ECU Talk software to read ICV% (injection timing valve) of the pump. It should be 50%-70% never bellow 40%. What that means that you either have air in the fuel or the IP(injection pump) fuel lifting diaphragm is broken so fuel starvation is occurring which means the pump is on the way out. Other than making sure all fuel lines, filter fittings and electrical connections and earths are secure and sound you need to read what ECU and IP controller are reporting, Do a search on Bosch/Zexel VP44 injection pump issues. These pumps are lemons especially 6 cylinder versions however 4 cylinder units are also troublesome. MAF pins(early 4 pins version) : Pin 1 = airflow signal to ECU 1.6V-4.1V Pin 2 = reference voltage 5 V Pin 3 = ground Pin 4 = vehicle voltage 12V

Finally managed to fit this garbage from MCC. What a rubbish product! The saga deserves it own build thread for sure.... The absolute piece of chit. Don't buy anything from those cretins! Regards

G'day mate, Previously posted warnings still apply to 2005 models. Look, as long as you are prepared to fork out $7,000 AUD + if it goes bang than go ahead and buy one. There is not much else to say really. Regards

Have you had the windscreen changed recently? If you had than the installers have not sealed it properly and/or as usual the grill panel between windscreen and bonnet has got these grommets which needs to be replaced and sealed when removed for whatever reason... The other possible reason is the big wiring harness grommet. Tyres will fit but scrub at full lock a little. Cheers

Well, interesting idea. It beats the overpriced milk crates plastic from Maxtrax's.... I didn't think those are needed in Vic high country however. The winch is probably more useful I'd have thought. Cheers

G'day bud, Welcome to the forum. Feel free to share your knowledge. Regards

G'day mate. First to that diesel specialist, I'm sorry but what that person is telling you is almost unbelievable, some specialist indeed. However just having incorrect trim codes is not going to cause the grief you are having, trim codes are used to fine tune fuel delivery for smoother idle and to improve fuel consumption. The Bosch systems especially use trim codes, the injectors you got would have those codes printed/etched on the injector body/casing where the harness plugs in. Some CrDs notorious for having atrocious fuel consumption were only found with no trim codes entered in the ECU from the factory. If your ECU has failed/failing on particular injector trigger than the only way to know for sure is to use an oscilloscope to read the signals and compare with other cylinders. That should make it clear. Other way is to "borrow" another ECU temporarily to check what happens. What needs an explanation is why you have lots of oil on the exhaust side of the turbo (ECU has no hand in that). Did you check your crankcase breather hose for restriction/blockage? Did you physically check that EGR valve is actually closing? Also by any chance the DOC (cat) hasn't disintegrated and is now blocking the exhaust. B/R

Oh dear, First I'd carry out compression test on each cylinder. That would tell you which cylinder number is not firing properly if any. Secondly I'd make sure you EGR valve is not stuck fully open as black smoke is usually indicator of very rich AFR in another words either too much fuel or not enough air. Thirdly make sure that your breather (CCV) is not blocked. The signs are not good, depending on the compression test results you could have a cylinder/piston problem or some other induction problem. I'd block the EGR completely to see what happens. (I don't understand why people bother with the small hole in the blocking plate. Who cares that EGR code is set, you know why! Did you know that when changing injectors on CrD you have to enter new calibration/trim codes in the ECU for each injector? Cheers

Update: There appears to be latest revision/batch (24024OM) of the timers from Kemo no longer work as automated per diagram above. Timer needs to be powered before actuating circuit is otherwise the timing trigger doesn't work anymore. Possible options are to fit just momentary manual switch or use something else. Cheers

Nissan has never fixed those motors (ZD30). They fail the same be it 2000, 2003 or 2006 model. Common rail version of it is sligthly more reliable in the pistons department but keeps failing with the oil pumps or turbos and exhaust manifolds. Another problem with them (CrD) they've got terrible fuel consumption it is very random so if you are unlucky it will drink like a petrol V8. Not good for towing. Cheers

I'm sorry but that it had a rebuilt 40K ago means nothing. The facts are that you are buying a vehicle which has very sus motor and no amount mods will keep it going. All those mods do is just delaying the inevitable although they also make it a bit more driveable. Have all those mods being carried out when the engine was rebuilt and before it was fired up again? If not its too late already, the rot sets in as soon as that engine is started in standard form. These engines simply expire without warnings and suddenly. Mods or not! Indeed prior their expiry they seem to run almost too well. This is the price you are paying for Nissan having absolute contempt for its customers and being one of crooks of automotive industry. ZD30 is simply one of the worst engines ever designed when it comes to longevity, The low emissions friendly design predetermines its ability to not last for very long. This worked well for Nissan as the amount of money they rake from engine replacements is simply to good to redesign the unit. Nissan has basically put the onus on you the owner. The facts that it has atrocious piston design which actually has the failure written all over it speaks for itself. The fact that it uses one of the worst diesel fuel injection systems Bosch has ever come out with combines these two together and the the engine is the predictable lemon. Unless you are getting the car very cheap and money saved gives you enough to be in front should the inevitable occur and it will happen, consider alternatives.... The engine is very expensive exercise especially when you are not handy with spanners or have good mate who is. There are chitloads of other issues but you've probably read about them already. You've been warned! Cheers

I don't know about change in size, when I did mine it was/appeared the same. It is usually the drivers side sensor which is a culprit. It is reachable with an extension and appropriate socket (check my post on oil sender spanner/socket sizes explanations ==> ). One thing to watch for is not to yank too hard when removing/tightening the sensor as ot is mounted on a stand off fitting which is held by banjo bolt which can come loose and than you'll have oil leak. To gain access to that one (banjo fitting) the starter motor needs to be removed which is horrible job. Good luck, mate. Cheers

G'day, mate. Welcome to the forum, it has been slow for a while I guess most are just lurking but not posting, anyway feel free to share your trials, tribulation and joys of NZ based 4WDing. Welcome again. Cheers