Rumcajs

That your rear main started leaking after the boost was upped could purely be just a coincidence.....or if yours is ventilation recirculated back in to intake there is a valve which controls the flow of blow by gases and it is possible that is not operating correctly..... That's why I had mentioned to know for sure you'll need to measure crankcase back pressure, if everything works as it should the back pressure should be equal or less then atmospheric pressure at the time of measuring with engine running of course best during the road test.. If it is positive pressure or more then ambient the you have possibly PCV not working correctly or compression leak and crankcase ventilation can't keep up. Compression leaks can be piston rings, engine wear, piston failure related etc. I'm not saying that's what is happening on yours but the only way knowing is to check/measure. I wouldn't have thought that going up by 4-6 psi is drastic increase but everything needs to be considered, the condition of the motor, the load etc. Is yours genuine factory TD42T or TD42Ti? Or is yours modded from NA? Factory TD42T starts opening its waste gate actuator at 76 kPA (11 psi) to its max 96 kPa (~14 psi). It is also suppose to have intake bypass valve set to 92 kPa (13.4 psi). I don't really have an experience with TD42 and what exactly they are they able to handle but this is general wisdom: higher boost pressure the higher the stresses on the engine, higher the stresses the quicker something has to give..... High boost is not magic puding for the power needs. TD42s are strong motors but the old design shows its limitations so don't get sucked in to false believe they handle anything you throw at them. I also suspect that 4x4 mob aren't exactly using factory specced engine at 25 psi all day long racing and hammering it. And if they do they don't do 100,000 kays with it in 2 years and I bet ya if they're serious about their race result the engine is pulled down more often the you would ever do! I'm not saying they're not correct but this isn't first time these aftermarket people were promising results and it went "pear shaped". Did you have issues with it when it was running at 12 psi? Personally I'd give it max 14-16 psi and nothing else. My POV is that raising boost above certain levels might not be so smart. Its the lag which matter because that's what affect the tractive effort, slow spool up affects the output, Anyway, see the attachment about PCV description and how to test. Cheers

G'day mate, IMHO 18 psi is too much for TD42..... In any case increased crankcase pressure can cause oil leaks through rear main or harmonic balancer end or rocker cover seal especially if those seals are well worn already. One way to know for sure is to measure crankcase pressure. If it is 5 KPa above ambient/atmospheric pressure then you have a problem. Do you have crankcase breather still connected or is it open to atmosphere? If it open it should be spewing a lot more oil out if the excessive boost cause extra pressure. You are reducing the reliability of the engine big time with higher boost. Regards

It can be safely pushed to 18 psi. That is the limit on non CrD so safe for CrDs for sure. Mine (non CrD) spikes to 18 psi when pushed and generally keeps around 14-16 psi. I do find that higher boost is not always the better, generally fuel consumption increase follows. I have set dual Dawes where I keep it to low boost (11 psi) for eco and higher (14-16 psi) for power when pushed. Regards

G'day mate, I think you've got it wrong, that is why you have 20 psi boost spikes. ===> To "shorten" or screw Dawes valve in means increasing its unloading pressure so you want to lenghten the valve or unscrew it to reduce the unload pressure. It simply affects the spring inside the valve and the tension of it, the pressure required to unseat the ball will be higher when tension is increased, reduce the spring tension, lower the pressure required to overcome it. Loosen the lock nut and then unwind or back off the valve couple of turns (mark to position) to check where you stand. As for the "catch can" it just proves the point, it doesn't work properly because if it did you wouldn't have any oil residues in the intercooler. If you hear "boost" leaks and can't find obvious culprit the chances are that you have warped or blown/cracked exhaust manifolds or its gaskets or split EGR tube all very common on crD ZD30, the exhaust manifold warped and gaskets stuffed especially. Regards

OK, so far so good. Very capable tyres, performed flawlessly in Flinders rocky terrain. I was pleasantly surprised on black top where I expected them be noisy in fact the opposite, very quiet even more then my old Bridgestone D694 A/Ts. Good stuff. Cheers

No worries, I like the bash plate you've got on yours, did you make it yourself or is it commercial part? Is it possible for you to upload couple of close up shots of the plate and its attachment/fixing. Regards

This is a commom problem on many cars. Sealing between firewall/bulkhead and brake booster fails and any water draining down leaks inside. To the OP: removing master cylinder will make it easier as no need to disconnect the brake lines if they could be flexed far out enough to manouvere rest of the booster out. B/R

TBH it doesn't compute! Is it connected properly? The T piece end connects to vacuum lines and boost goes on the opposite. To me this looks like the boost line side to Dawes valve is leaking or is restricted so Dawes doesn't get full pressure hence no vacuum drop to retard the vanes. Usual problems with Dawes are opposite, it internally leaks hence no boost unless the ball seizes shut. Any loss of vacuum should retard the turbo vanes and drop boost. If at idle you crimp/disconnect the line to VGT actuator piston does the vane actuator lever drop down? MAF sensor is unlikely culprit and in any case CrD ZD30 uses both MAF and MAP (boost) sensors to coordinate fuelling control. Regards

I'd dismantle Dawes to check it for faults (jammed spring/ball or debris) first. As far as catch can is concerned I stick to ones made/designed by professionals (Provent) not backyarders business with penchant for copying ideas and a bit of 'ally' welding skill..... Cheers

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. A bit quiet these days/lately but feel free to make noise. Cheers

You can run up to 18 psi safely but need to watch as that will increase flow rate in turn causing MAF voltages to raise past "safe" levels especially if on aggressive spool up rate which ECU uses to reduce fuelling aka limp mode. Its a chicken or egg situation some models are more affected than other (e.g. Series 4 vs series 2 and 3) Regards

G'day mate, ZD30 is still a weakness however on CrD version a bit stronger. What however you will benefit from is much better tractability if you remove boost control from ECU's harms way by installing needle valve and Dawes combo so not so much there to assist the engine from failing sooner just have better performance, All the other bits are still valid for CrD too with an exception to EGR shim which can set DTC and MIL indicator. Some people drill small hole in the shim to avoid faults but honestly its just to avoid engine check lamp ON nothing else. No effect on performance. Regards

Interesting comments. I have just read about Nissan AU preparing to significantly dropping prices accross Y62 range in anticipation of introducing Infinity Q80 brand, Not good for resale values of used Y62 I suppose. It seems like Nissan has completely given up on that model. Yeah I'd like to know the fuel figures especially off road, I can only imagine the fuel consumption when towing drilling rig, LOL .... Anyway, feel free to start a few threads about ownership and travels with Y62, what mods you have, etc. Include some pics as well. Regards.

Well, that just continues the trend most Jap automakers pursue. "What warranty? Our vehicles don't fail/break. " Exception it seems is Mitsu as they learned the hard way in the past... Speaking of Y62, I'm still not convinced of the right to wear Patrol badge. Ni$$an has pulled a con as the actual car is Infinity Q56 consumer Yank barge SUV. Aand according to latest goss when Infinity brand is finally launched in Australia its gona be Q80 looking suspiciously like Y62 with the cosmetic changes and a price to match. Perhaps you should pursue Ni$$an Australia through consumer affairs department. If you "yell" loud enough they will come to party. Nice car or not, having battery go flat because lights fail to turn off is pathetic. Have you used it off road on real 4WD track? I'm curious how it perfomed with IRS/IFS combo. Regards

G'day mate, If the diagram is correct, the ECU controls glow time and because it is non DTC detectable you can just simply take the control away and do what ZD30 boys do with separate glow plugs timer mod or manually adding momentary switch to ground the glow rellay. Here is the diagram ==> ECU brings on glow plug indicator

Patrol @ Quarry Springs, Bendleby Ranges

Well, I hope you understand that the manual contains info about multiple options so I hope you are looking at right one. What you are describing is/sounds like FS5R30A which is in 2.8 L GU. You need to know what gearbox model you are dealing with first. Yours should be FS5R50B. Does it look like this one? ==> I can email you relevant pages if you are stuck, PM me your details

That doesn't make a sense. Care to elaborate as what parts don't match? GU/GR Patrols are not that different and you need to realize that Nissan writes really poor manuals, it is mostly generalized information and the rest is in pictorial form with points as to what bolts to replace/lubricate or tighten... Great stuff indeed. I only use it as a general reference/footnotes if I need something to do. Still better than nothing. Regards

I haven't done it on Patrol but I've done plenty of trucks transmissions to know that if you can't get to bolts because the proximity to body, chassis, etc, angling the assembly until access is obtained is sometimes required. I'm assuming that in this case loosening engine mounts (to allow flexing and pay attention to the fan shroud/fan assembly) and removing gearbox cross member then using jack under the tranny and engine sump lowering/angling the rear end until you clear the body. I looked on Nissan manual and there is no mention specifically in regards to access to those bolts and when I looked at mine it is not just the bolts, the starter motor housing hump is fouling on the body too.... Regards

It shouldn't make any difference, installing gearbox and having it in gear helps with turning output shaft aligning clutch splines for easier installation. Same would apply for installing/mating transfer case back. Regards

VIN number is stamped on the manufacturer plate inside the engine bay on RHS bulkhead near the corner or next to wiper motor. It starts with J1xxxxxxxx . If that number is entered in to Nissan FAST parts system which any self respecting Nissan dealer should have access to and use, To identify correct part number for any part on the vehicle. Sorry but "Nissan SA customer liaison officer" is an idiot. Any Nissan parts guy who uses FAST system should have no issue identifying what is what. What kind of morons you guys have there? Fitting ARB locker to Nissan Patrol in Australia never voids any warranties and in any case look where that warranty which is not worth the paper it is written on is getting you anyway. Looks like you are experiencing the wonderful Nissan customer service, we get it here in Australia too. You can always source the ARB locker from States for a half the cost. I don't have access to 2013 Nissan FAST parts system so I can't really help you. What you can do is to contact Garry from Nizzbits in Melbourne (nizzbits@hotmail.com) website: www.nizzbits.com.au , he's very good with Nissan parts, he maybe able to point you in the right direction. Regards

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. Shouldn't yours be GU/GR Y61? Regards

Sorry mate, I'd do it for myself but not for profit. You can however see your local autoelecs and they might be able to help you making one. You could remove your old one, lay it out on the bench and than match it wire by wire to fix damaged sections. I've done this before when I couldn't source genuine or waiting times for new harness are extreme. Its just time consuming thats all. If MK wiring harness is in big demand than there might be some pros making them. Any "autosparky" worth his/her salt should be able to do it. I'm not auto elec just a diesel tech its not that hard just tedious and requires understanding of wiring circuits. Regards

G'day mate, I think they're "pulling your leg". I doubt very much that such claims are valid. Nissan FAST parts system works on VIN numbers and all parts are pretty much always correctly identified, so either you have a very special car or dealer is incompetent. Chances are that the Nissan dealer is getting wrong parts possibly sourcing seconds themselves and trying to blame someone else. TBH, having this sort of dramas with factory diff lock I'd go for aftermarket units like E-Locker or ARB airlocker end of story. This would apply in Australia and would be over very quickly. I'm not sure about availability of ARB products in South Africa for example. Regards

G'day mate, welcome aboard. Please feel free to share your trials and tribulation of owning Nissan Patrol. Regards