Engine & Drivetrain

Hi guys, Just thought this info maybe useful to those attempting to replace the oil sender/s on ZD30. I had a bit of mission today to find out exactly what fits, I found that with certain conditions following will apply: The shape of the sensor makes it fun to choose the socket/spanner size for sure" The sender is 27 mm across the flats The actual socket/spanner which fits exactly is 1" but it must be 12 points socket/spanner. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26 mm 12 point (double hex) spanner and/or socket will also fit but it will be a loose fit good enough to undo. ------…

A friend of mine who supplies me with BioDiesel went away for a few months a while back so I was forced to use Diesel to thin my veg oil. The result was I started getting a leak from the rear of the injector pump from the bolt/ seal in the middle of where the injector pipes bolt up. I know it was the diesel that did this because 2 other car that my mate supplies Bio for also developed the same problem sio it's beyond co -incidence they all happened at the same time out of the blue. The remedy has been the same for all..... Tighten the bolt. Did mine n the weekend and instead of it raining out everywhere and rust proofing the entire underside of the vehicle …

Im looking at buying a gu 4500 motor and just wondering will it bolt to my gearbox as I've got a tb42 carby motor?

G'day guys. Went out for my first 4wd ever in wombat state forest today. It was amazing. However I think that after 180,000kms my stock clutch has given up tue ghost. It feels quite slippy. I am looking for a new heavy duty clutch. Any brands anyone would recommend. I drive a 2004 guiv 3.0 di, 5spd man. Also should I look into getting the flywheel machined while I've got the car apart? Has anyone done a clutch replacement in their backyard? How hard is the job?

Got my 4.2 serviced today (Manuel) and I asked them to empty the gear box oil and replace with supplied vmx80 as I think it will help with the notchy gearbox, but when I got the car back I was told they couldn't get the plug out. They say they swung off a 6ft bar and it still wouldn't budge. They tried heat to.. No go. Basically they gave up and said to take it to Nissan. :-( Anyone else have this happen?

I'm wanting to get the 2005 tdi tuned - doubt its ever had one before.. But I don't want to take it to a retard. Does anyone have suggestions for someone who knows what they are doing?

In the last week or so ive noticed going into second (either from 1st or 3rd) has become notchy - It never grinds, but just doesnt feel smooth. Ive read elsewhere (you all know where) that vmx 80 may help, but thought I would ask here to see if anyone has had any recent experience with this. Ive only owned the car since late May, and have no idea what oil is in it - Its only got 108000km on the clock. Any help appriciated.

I have been running a Donaldson http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PRE-CLEANER-DONALDSON-3-76mm-/150830638091?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231e34e40b and I think that it's a bit restrictive for the 3.0l turbo. It filters heaps of dust and bug wings but makes a hell of a racket (actualy sounds pretty cool). I have changed it for one that I swiped off of a 75 series 4.2l Landcrab. Will this be big enough. It sounds awesome

Just wondering if anyone knows we're I could get a cheap clutch from and if anyone knows a cheap place to fit it.

Has anyone done the lock up converot mod here? I've been told it's really easy and just requires cutting a wire running it though a relay and back to a switch on the dash. Is it really this easy or am I missing something? Cheers Mick.

Since moving to East Gippsland, and with winter arriving, one thing I've noticed is that to travel much further before the auto transmission torque converter lockup operates of its own accord when going above 80kmh. I can of course lock it manually with the TC switch, but it's interesting exactly how long it does take to drive, before it does it on its own. I did notice this even in Melbourne a few times in winter, but it never took as long as it does down here. Obvioulsy I've never noticed this when driving in the High Country on trips, as we've rarely been able to drive at any great speed first thing in the morning. I always thought that the auto transmission would …

hey guys I have a 2.8 liter gu and I'm thinking about re gearing my doffs to suit the larger tires..... Now I have been through all this in my jeep but have never had anything to do with nissans before. So question is does any one know what the stock ratios on a 98 gu patrol are? And second what ratios you guys have used to suit between 33 and 35 inch tires ? Any help would be great. I wanna get this thing running as good as possible for the little 2.8 and also I wanna do touring not just crawling so I wanna still be able to sit on 110 on the highway with out revving it's guts out. Dean. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hey guys I just got myself a 2.8 gu and am trying to get a bit more low down torque out if her.... So far I just got a 3" exhaust and now looking at Chips and Egr blocking plates. Just wondering what chips people are using ? The roo systems chip seems to give greater increases then the other systems I have been looking at. Any body running a chip I'd love to hear what u have and how it performed after if you have the time to let me know. Thanks for your help. Dean.

Well I've been looking at pro and cons of it.. I personally like the idea over a locker.. And Nissan do make a mean LSD.. Mine still going strong in the rear at 480,000k's So any thoughts?? Local wreckers have a gq in the yard ATM with rear LSD, I'm pretty sure it'll bolt straight in the front..

What are people using ?? Iv'e allways used nissan's, am i getting ripped off?? Is it just normal eg: Nulon etc. with a nissan sticker?? $65 for 5 litres each change, and i do it yearly..

Hi All, Im fitting a Water to air intercooler to my TD42T. What do you recommend to trigger the water pump and thermofan to turn on? Im thinking about buying one of these gauges pictured below, they have a built in trigger which can be used to switch relays. I'll drill and tap the sensor into the intercooler pipes and when it reaches my set temperature it will turn on the water pump and thermofan... Does this sound wise? do most people just run the pump from the ignition wire? cheers Kris

Hi guys. The old tank has had the death wobbles for a while now and the 2" lift just made it worse.. So I'm starting with the panhard rod bushes.. There genuine at the moment with 480 000 k on them so probably a little overdue anyway.. Just wondering what material people have found to be the best result and how long they last? Ie rubber, poly, uhmw??? Also I notice some come with an outer sleeve and some don't. Any reason for that outer sleeve?? Cheers

Howdy, while away this weekend we developed a religeous intercooler (holey) To cut a long story short, the mechanics formed a concensus that a build of oil, bulldust (and a dead mouse), caused the head to become warmer than usual, causing the engine cover/shroud to deform and buckle, pressing the rubber seal onto the fins, eventually wearing through some of them. Thought I might give you guys a heads up that next time you are under the bonnet to have a look under your plastic shrouds to see what sort of build up you are developing and to make sure you shroud is not close to the ally fins.

Just wondering if anyone has had any experiences with Terrain Tamer's Fuel Manager system with the optional water sensor. I'm currently in the process of fitting one to my CRD. The unit is wired up, and I was trying to prove the sensor works before plumbing it into the fuel system. I did this by putting the tip of the sensor in some water to simulate water in the diesel filter. Nothing happened. Any ideas on how I can confirm the will work? I know the unit is wired up correctly, as the dashboard warning light comes on for 2-5 seconds when starting the vehicle, as it should according to the manual. Maybe I shouldn't be so paranoid

I was under my new 2005 4.2td gu today and noticed what looks like a 12x12cm patch on the side of the sump next to the dump pipe. It looks like tar covered in a foil - at first I thought maybe it was to protect dump from the temperature of the dump pipe but maybe it's a bloody patch over a hole. ???!

Can some tell me if it's possible to remove the sump with the engine still in place. Will I need to jack the front up and drop the shocks, sway bar etc? Thanks in advance.

I have a reasonably big leak of oil from where the timing cover back plate meets the block. Hoping to fix it insitu. Hoping I won't have to pull the cam out to reseat the plate . The engine was rebuilt 100,000 kms ago so can't see the point rebuilding it just yet. Just want to stop the oil leak. Anybody know what's involved? Thanks in advance.

I killed my old auto (RE4R03) recently and have eventually ended up with a Wholesale Autos Extreme AT, Nomad valve body and HD bronzed TC. I’ve learnt a bit about my auto gearbox recently and thought I’d share what I learnt. They are better than manuals. Heat will kill automatic transmission quickly (as will water). I’ve had many autos and prefer them to manuals on the road and at the farm. For me the gear changes were sluggish in the old AT and it was a disappointment from the very start. Although the new AT is excellent, half the problem is the auto's TCU (Transmission Control Unit) and I still find myself shifting down to second for a hill if the ecu has…

I might get a 4.2 Diesel from a GQ with less than 200K. How much could I get?

I have a metalic scrapping noise that is intermittant. I only hear the noise when the motor is ideling, if I rev the motor the noise goes a way. Th noise seems tyo be comming from the front of the motor and is intermittant.