Rumcajs

G'day, Welcome to the forum. Cheers

G'day mate, Welcome tot he the forum. I'm not sure about UK owners I don't think there are many, Y61 is a bit rare in your parts of the world but I'm wondering about the reference to 3.3 T. As far as I know Y61 has GVM of 3.05 T in Australia. Regards

G'day, Welcome to the forum and make yourself at home. Feel free to post your adventures, ideas and experiences with the Patrol. Cheers

G'day, I'm not sure catch can is the required idea on petrol non turbo charged engine. Because the suction is limited and so is compression ratio the engine, not subject to greater internal crankcase pressure necessarily. Having said that you can try but I'd would not even entertain an idea of Supercheap or Autobarn style catch cans. Simple rocker cover oil trap Nissan has included should be sufficient but sadly it usually isn't. I'd go with the pros from MANN company and get Provent Regards

I've removed/hidden those posts which were either in error or posted in some mistaken identity. Regards

ATTENTION! Due to the Photobucket phenomenal cockup all images in this thread are now lost! I hope those swines just disappear in to the dust bin of history.... I'll try to repost images and restore as time permits but it will be time consuming process. Sorry! Lets face it, cruise control installation in GU Patrol is a bit of nasty joke, the factory setup is just pathetic and until now most aftermarket units were overpriced with no self instalation option. Finally though things are changing and what appears to be a hope for us there are number of kits available on E-bay which are tailored to Nissan Patrols GU series from 2000-2008. Available with either factory steering wheel OEM installation unit (more expensive) or a aftermarket stalk option (cheaper). So, the links the stalk option ==> Cruise control kit NI05S Nissan Patrol GU Wagon 2000-2008 2.8 & 3.0Tdi DBW the steering wheel switch module ==> Cruise Control Kit Nissan Patrol GU Wagon 2004-2008 3.0 Tdi with genuine control switch We'll describe the fitment of the kit with steering wheel mounted controls. Read and follow enclosed instructions carefully and refer to following: WARNINGS! SRS Airbag is highly dangerous to manipulate if precautions are not followed. Disconnect battery/ies both negative (first) and positive terminals and wait about 5 mins. Remove covers (2x) on either side of the steering wheel with seal pick tool or small blade screw driver Exposed screws can be removed by using tamper proof Torx bit. Carefully withdraw the SRS Airbag asssembly far enough to access the plugs To remove the airbag connector first unlock the black safety locking tab by prying it carefully up using a pick, then unplug the rest Picture shows how it suppose to look like Unplug the horn and clock spring plug and disengage it from the metal tab so you can rest the airbag on a seat while removing the blanking panel for the switches panel. Unscrew the bolts remove the blank and fit the switches panel, put the SRS airbag assembly aside in the safe place. Unlock the harness with single horn wire by pulling the locking tab out with a pick far enough so you can clearly see the terminal inside. In the instructions it says That was my case, I made sure by using multimeter and measured on the underside of the SW (steering wheel) clock spring connectors if they match the following instruction So pause here and confirm which wire is which. The terminals will only insert one way observe the existing horn wire terminal and it will be obvious which way. To remove lower side clock spring connector/s care needs to takes as they're a little harder to remove as the unlocking tab is very hard to push in by fingers so a small screwdriver and extra care should handle it. The grey connector comes out first (the only one to remove anyway) Picture bellow shows how it suppose to look ( yellow connector as an example only) It is the grey plug and secondary terminal lock needs to be released before the terminals can be inserted and again terminals will only fit one way. After fitting the terminals push the lock back in ( I had a trouble to push one of the terminals all the way so I used small point nose pliers to pull it in (again check with the position of the existing wire/terminal) Plug lower side clock spring connectors back in, Plug top clock spring side plug in (3 wires now, yellow, white and black) Refit SRS Airbag assembly making sure all is plugged in, secured and not fouling on anything Refit screws and covers. Remove lower dash panel (1x screw + 2x screws for fuel cap release lever and 2x screws for bonnet catch release lever and push on clips) to gain access to the underside where pedals are. (I removed the side panel next to accelerator pedal as well as space is restricted and TPS plugs are harder to reach.) Fit clutch switch if required (manual) as per instructions Route harness as you wish so the TPS plugs, brake pedal switch plug (if manual clutch switch plug) can be reached and plugs connected. Ensure that no wiring for the cruise control can be snagged by the pedal linkage movement! I used main harness around accelerator assembly as a guide and the top bolt of U bracket (keeping the harness safe) for it to mount the CC control unit behind the accelerator pedal assembly using a piece of flat aluminium alloy) For the ignition supply wire (I only solder PCBs) reused spare ABS ignition fuse feed with this little gadget ==> Double Mini Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap | Jaycar Electronics For speed signal wire blue/orange (pin 20 centre plug): Unplug the harness for the speed signal wire to identify which one as per instruction which are BW so here is the colour version I have made Y piece wiring piece/plugs to connect instead of soldering Once everything is connected it is time to test it. Leave the diode harness hanging free so you can decide where to fit it later once everything works as it should. Reconnect battery in reverse order of disconnecting. While standing outside (so if SRS Airbag goes off for chit and giggles you are not inside) turn the ignition key on and wait for warning lamps etc. to go out. Test the cruise control ON switch, the diode should light up green. Time for the road test. The cruise control diode should change a little to give orange when the cruise control is set. If everything works fit the diode by drilling the hole somewhere as appropriate. e.g. Enjoy long drives without cramped up right foot! Refit panels. Huge thanks to Dronus for putting me up for this by posting his built on P4x4 forum.

G'day I'd follow the advice ricster gave, I'm just unsure about TD42 plugs. If you search Bosch part numbers for example it will give GPN338 for TD42 and its derivates but not for RD28. Also glow system in GQ's RD28 works in the different way so unless you rewire/change the control system I'd be wary of using TD42 glow plugs. RD28 uses ceramic glow plugs and 2 types as well [3 double pole units marked yellow are required per engine (last 3 cylinders) and 3 of the single pole plugs marked blue (Front 3 cylinders)] because of the way they can be operated so putting metal tipped cheaper ones from T42 without modding the controls will burn them quickly. See here ==> Conversion kit for glow system GQ Y60 RD28 Regards

G'day, It sounds like glow system problem for sure, but you need tyo identify which part. Firstly check if the control system actually powers up the glow plugs, then depending on the results measure each plug's resistance or continuity individually. Resistance should be low, around 0.6 Ohms, if open circuit or high resistance means failed plug. You'll need multimeter to do those checks. If the system doesn't power up, check fuse or relay for power supply first. TD42 control system (timer) uses positive signal to actuate the glow relay. Honestly I wouldn't even bother with timer personally I'd just wire up momentary push ON switch to control the glow relay myself for those 5-10 secs before cold start. Regards

Real world feedback is the best. Thanks for sharing. Regards

Agreed, I have RV4 and I rarely keep the back window rolled up especially at night. Regards

Oh well that is indeed a bad news. While this can be caused by wiring, usually it is not and if it is the wiring it can't be replaced easily anyway. I have stripped VP44 pump before where spill valve wiring insulation disintegrated completely and bare wires were shorting out against each other but to fix that is almost impossible. For those interested, it is a Bosch VP44 dreaded error: Fault code 76 or DTC 0706 P6 spill valve fault: Spill valve (Built-into electronic control fuel injection pump) does not function properly. Possible causes: * Harness or connectors *Electronic control fuel injection pump circuit is open or shorted *Electronic control fuel injection pump

Don't forget that some of the codes could have been introduced by you when you disconnected the pump (especially 0703 which is the pump com line or data link) Do reset if in doubts and try again . Regards

G'day mate, welcome to the the place. Feel free to share your adventures from the Top End as well Pretty good for a newbie though as you posted in the right section too..... Welcome again. Cheers

Yep, it improved a lot. I wasn't sure if it was my location currently (EU) because it was atrocious at times but it seems to fly now for sure. Fingers crossed. Regards

Having reread your post, if the fuel is spitting out at high pressure from the injection lines then I wouldn't suspect the pump itself as long as the fuel coming out is not just a weak sputter. If the fuel is going in that could also mean that it is either being injected at wrong time (timing issue) or you have no air incoming, any chance the main shutdown flap in the intake is stuck closed? There are two in the Y piece, the bigger diameter is the shutdown flap and smaller one is swirl chamber one (opens up above 1,100 RPM. Have you check DTCs via flash code method? If it only comes up with code 55 (means no DTCs recorded) Also pump ECU can have a codes in it that would prevent it from starting but you can only be accessed via special scanner connected directly to pump. Personally I think its time for a disel specialist to have a look. I'd check what is the reading on the MAF sensor just in case. Regards

Mate, I'm currently travelling overseas so my access online is a bit limited and unreliable. There should be another interface or plugin adapter cable just above the pump attached to plastic clips on the intake manifold those are standard Nissan plugs you can try following the harness for the IP there. The pump plug has a sliding lock which while pulled sideway pulls the plug out at the same time. The sliding lock is greyish with what looks like stand off to grab on is usually full of dust and hard to move so clean the area first then spray WD40 or similar on the surface the and observe which way to pull, its the way the handle points so while pulling sideways gently wiggle the rest out of the socket. Its like a reverse wedge. It is just fiddly and you need to figure out the motion of it. Regards

Well, I guess this needs to be revisited yet again, So after several years now the new Canadian (VerticalScope Inc which owns more than 1,100 community forum websites and content portals, including AutoGuide.com, PetGuide.com, Motorcycle.com ...) owners would not heed the warnings about runing outdated vulnerable to hacking exploits forum software it came as no surprise their operations would get hacked. Hacker steals 45 million accounts from hundreds of car, tech, sports forums The company that runs the forums admitted failings, but underplayed the hack. Really, well that does it for me personally, I have enough time remembering my online banking creds then bothering with shitty auto forum which has still not updated the vBulletin software anyway so they can keep going their operations on the cheap, makes me wonder if they're running it from their mom's basements in downtown Toronto..... Since they reset my password I haven't even bothered, in any case that site is a privacy nightmare, they're running over 13 trackers on the home page alone and if you see the ads it just horrendous and hillarious at the same time cos they would serve you ones for Toyota or Mitsubishi...LOL. It still makes me wonder though. Regards

If you are a lucky user of Windows®10 and wondering why your webcam has stopped working then ===> W10 anniversary update breaks most webcams Nothing like a compulsory upgrade ruining your hardware or software. Good on ya Micro$oft™..... This guy is MS biggest fan and he's clearly unimpressed ==> MS broke millions of webcams with its latest update There is a registry hack to fix this break but if you aren't even sure what registry is then good luck to you. Now for those more conspiracy minded, MS has changed the way the webcam access is handled in Windows, in the old ways only 1 application at the time would be granted the access to the device. Now there is a server running to access the camera and the applications can access the server concurrently. The way to look at it is, if I wanted to maliciously exploit this say "eavesdropping" on your camera while you are happily chatting on Skype you'd be none wiser as I'd be able to connect to the server without you knowing.... Makes me wonder..... Anyway here is the official explanation for their SNAFU ==> Support thread

Hmm, Are you sure you have enough fuel coming and it is not aerated? When I had injector lines off on mine it took me almost 45 mins of cranking and priming the system before it would finally start, very nerve wrecking experience to be sure. I'd connect clear plastic hose between fuel filter and the pump and return line on the pump and the return pipe to see for myself. If there is no air present in the fuel then the news is/can be indeed the bad one for your vallet. Are you sure there are no DTCs or engine MIL is not flashing? If the pump ECU doesn't respond to main ECU signal requests the MIL will flash, you can check that is the case by disconnecting the plug on the pump itself the MIL should flash (turn the ignition off first when disconnecting the plug) * If there is no fuel pumping out of injection line at all that means that either: * pump ECU is not powering up (either B+ or B- wiring is not OK), * main ECU is not powering up (Ign+, B+ or B-) * main engine ECU is not telling the pump ECU to start injecting fuel (NATS or data link between the ECUs is not OK) * pump ECU and or Injection pump is broken There is a way as a last resort to force pump ECU to operate in the so called hot mode by powering up/grounding certain pin/s but it is not for weak hearted and I'm not sure if it applies to 4 cylinder versions of VP44/Zexel units. ===> Disclaimer: you must ensure that the pin outs are correct for your model! Above instructions are for 6 cylinder versions of Bosch VP44 There is also a very dodgy way to see if the engine will start at all (so you can discount other things) that you take intercooler hose of between intake manifold of and spray healthy dose of Aero™ Start in there and crank to see what happens. I personally would have to be very desperate to try that way as the possible damage caused makes me cringe! Regards

No one is bagging Y62, and it would be a disaster if a vehicle with so much latest technology would not outperform the models it is meant to supersede. Of course it outperforms GU which itself based on GQ technology so combined age is 40 years +. Heck, Toyo's LC FJ Cruiser is absolute weapon off road in stock form and beats anything Toyo ever put out or out of its showroom made to the street near you yet look at the sales, it was a flop! Its not just about technology it is also about the looks, flair and buyers appeal. I've seen stock Pajero beating up lifted Y61.....oh the irony but disconnect all the electronic gizmos helping these vehicles and Y61 reigns supreme.....in the off road environment only! Because that's what Y61 is, it is vehicle build for off roading, it sucks at everything else! What I would personally bag is the visual aspect of the vehicle (Y62), it is just plain ugley, the Yank SUV barge (Infiniti QX series). I was never a fan of American design styling for cars, to put it mildly they're all hideous except perhaps for Mustang and Corvette or latest F150 Raptor! Give me the technology of Y62 with body style of Y61 and I'll buy two of them! I absolutely hate what Y62 stands for in interior and exterior design when it comes to offroader especially when I know the origins of it, not to mention how Nissan tried to pull a wool over the buyers eyes and flog them brand new "Nissan Patrol" which it isn't! It is the American SUV re-badged full stop! We know why it has ended this way, Nissan is penny pinching in the ever diminishing returns of car manufacturing business. You can see its current line up of vehicles/SUVs, all based on American or Euro models now sold in Australia to buyer like it or not. There is indeed this huge elephant in the room so no matter how much you try to spin it, Y62 will never replace what Y61 and Y60 stood for. It is not Nissan Patrol! Does it have off road credentials? Yep, it does! Does it perform? Yep it, does! Does it have a buyer of rugged offroader appeal? Nope! IMHO, If I wanted something like Y62 is to serve me as everyday car and occasional trip to wilderness I'll buy 2 cars then, luxury V8 powered limo with all the bells and whistles for driving on the road daily in the luxury and buy whatever other 4WD is available, probably dual cab ute which can haul the stuff I need in the wilderness, canvas seats and rubber mats so I don't have spend time detailing the thing for Monday's drive to work! Sure, Y62 is nice to drive with plenty of power on tap to overtake on the freeways people hauler but that's where it ends for me, ripping up the trail with the V8 and constantly watching fuel gauge is not my thing. It is all about POV, if you like the thing and it does what you want from it then enjoy it, just don't get upset that not everyone shares your enthusiasm for it. Somewhere along the lines the car makers have lost the idea for modern offroader completely, now it is either luxo barges with 4WD ability thrown in or workmen truck utes with the same 4WD ability. It will be interesting what will MB do with the planned release of their G-Wagen in less luxo-barge style and more of work/play style version but something tells me it still won't be for the average person. Why is it so hard to have no nonsense modern drive train technology equipped off road capable vehicles minus the luxo barge crap. e.g. look at Toyo LC200 vs LC76 lunacy. Personally I absolutely hate the direction the car industry is taking, honestly bring on the electric cars ala Tesla instead of these underpowered for emission reasons loaded with cheap electronics overpriced POS we are now getting. Regards

So how did you end up with it? Did you get it started? Cheers

Yes, you do as the access is limited. Be warned though, it is dangerous and messy affair. I've done it on other engines but not on this one as access and design makes it very difficult to carry out. I'd prefer you try to access the lines at the injection pump. Regards

Injection lines are buried under the intercooler between the inlet manifold branches, very hard to get to or if you look down the side of the engine where injection pump is you might be able to just see them coming out of the pump. Anyway I forgot to ask, does yours have NATS (immobilizer)? If it does check that the light on the top the dash is ON( if it stays ON after ignition is ON then it has an issue or flashes(ignition off normal behavior). If you have spare key just try with that one. This could also be an issue with NATS. Regards

G'day, Is the engine MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) On/flashing, if yes you need to check for any DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) those codes could give an indication to a particular failure otherwise you are flying blind or so is the saying. ZD30 has injection pump which is notorious for failing but main engine ECU would give indication or response from the pump control unit if there is an error (you can't access pump ECU directly without a compliant scanner) I don't know what your mechanical skills or awareness of diesel engine components are like but: Start of with basics, Is there actually any fuel in the fuel filter? Can you undo the fuel line out of the filter and manually prime the system to see if the fuel is coming out of the filter first. (put some soft drink plastic bottle under the fitting first and if you put some suitable sized clear plastic hose on it you could also check for air in the fuel at the same time) Undo fuel return line from the injection pump and check if any fuel is being returned back to fuel tank as you manually prime the system via the priming pump on the filter head? For what it is worth, I'd undo no 1 injector line (be very careful there as fuel is at very high pressure and serious injury can result, and with someone else cranking check if the fuel is being delivered there briefly. (this is very messy!) After all above is correct, and both engine ECU and pump ECU are getting powered and there are no codes to indicate as to electrical failure then it is possible that there is a air being sucked in the the fuel system somewhere hence it will not start. You could make a temporary by pass fuel lines from either a spare fuel jerry can or or some other container bucket. If no fuel is coming out of injector line no 1 (be very careful as fuel comes out at very high pressure so don't undo the line too much) and ECUs are powered and there are no fault codes then injection pump or its embedded ECU has failed which case you'll need professional to help you. Regards

G'day mate, What sort of vibration are talking and does it change or happens only at specific RPM/speed? Automatic transmissions are sensitive to water and dirt/dust ingress. Simplest thing you could do is to check for any traces of leaks outside and that nothing is loose (cross member bolts, transmission mounts etc.) Also check the the transmission oil cooler is not externally blocked with mud or other items as that would indicate overheating and further degrading the oil. Having said that, fluid contamination would affect every gear change perhaps so this is/could be something mechanical or related to just 4th gear operation. The best advice is to take to auto transmission specialist to have a look. When was the last time the transmission was serviced? Personally I'd drop the pan and change fluid in it first to be sure if unsure about the state of transmission fluid. Regards