Rumcajs

That's to centre the filter I suppose, mine looks different but it has something similar to the lower section without that tube extending upwards, perhaps earlier design. Also the lower lip is to act as a barrier should the water get inside the filter box hence the drain hole outside of it. Many people mistakenly block it and then face the consequences, although jury is still out in regards to it. Regards

Pics?

Well, had it done today and had a primetime view on how it is done as the tech didn't even bother to put the truck inside workshop. The service advisor told me it is gonna take 1.5 hour... The actual job took around 35 mins, he had the entire assembly out in less than 12 mins, then on the bench to remove flawed inflator tube to fit replacement and back in. After the fitment the poor guy got confused when he powered the system and checked, he probably noticed that glow light is staying on instead going out after a few seconds (because I wired it that way so I can see when the glow system is on) so he left the job for a foreman to figure out I guess to check what is going on. Whatever they were doing afterwards took longer then actual recall job, truck sat there unattended for 40+ mins then obviously didn't make sense to them they opted out of it, just to tell me at handover.....all while I was looking at them. I haven't noticed any stuff up yet after had a glance, all screws were there so the fingers crossed this is the last time I ever have to go there. Regards

G'day, Most issues with auto trannies are down to basics like oil levels or fluid contamination. When was the last time the service was done on the transmission? Regards

Before you go out and spent the hard earned $$$ do simple checks first: Disconnect "buzz" bar (glow plugs conntecting plate) from glow plugs and then check with multimeter continuity between contact on each glow plug and ground (engine head), no continuity means failed glow plug. You can also check with multimeter if the behavior of the glow plugs system goes as bellow: "When the ignition switch i s turned-on, the relay is turned on and the "high-level" electric current flows through the glow plugs and heats .them up quickly. After T1 seconds have passed, the control unit turns off the glow indicator but the relay remains on. The relay "chops" the electric current when the ignition switch turns to "START" from-"ON". The relay has been chopping for T, seconds after the ignition switch has returned to "ON" from "START". the electric current while T4 - T1, seconds after the ignition switch has When not cranking, the relay chops turned to "ON" from-"OFF". T1 : approx. 2 - 6 [sec.] (Varies with coolant temperature.) T2, : approx. 3 - 14 [sec.] (Varies with glow plug terminal voltage.) T3, : approx. 15 [sec.] T4, : approx. 15 [sec.] When the ignition switch is repeatedly turned "ON" and "OFF", T, becomes shorter." Above is how it is suppose to work on factory installed TD42 so in your case lets hope the person who did the conversion followed the right thing. Regards

Well, you can't just fit smoke limiter to the injection pump which hasn't got a provision for it for a start, so you'd have to source IP suitable for that engine with turbo charger option which for GQ I'm not aware ever happened, unless you have TD42T engine from GU which was factory turbo so you could use that pump which will set you $$$$. So forget that. The smoke in this case would only be happening during WOT at lower RPMs. The plummes of smoke immediately after start can be a symptom of glow plugs actually not working correctly that is a problem with the hardware not the control. Glow plugs are like spark plugs in petrol engine disposable limited life span products. TD42 is indirect injection diesel so properly heating up precombustion chambers (especially when it is cold) is crucial hence glow plugs must operate correctly. When was the last time you have checked them or were replaced, metal tips units usually only last for about 40,000 kms at best. Personally if you had done at least 50,000 kays and had not have glow plugs checked/replaced them do so. It would also be prudent to have the injectors checked as well given the age of the vehicle, is there any history there in regards to injectors being serviced? Regards

There is no issue with your glow plug system unless it is hard to start when cold when operating as you've described... Anyway, depending how it was converted (engine) glow plugs timing has been controlled either by the engine ECU (ZD30) or via "Glow control unit" (TD42) both control actual glow relay either ground (ZD30) or ignition positive (TD42) so in reality you could just do it yourself via momentary switch controlling either side as required where you holding the contact closed would determine the glow time. There is no need for post glow unless you operate in Alps. The glow light on instrument cluster is just a fraud because Nissan doesn't want you to know how long the actual post glow time takes so they use that light only as some kind of condescending info to tell you when you can start/crank the engine.....(once the light goes out but it still glows, so you can"t take that light as information as to what is happening to glow plugs process because it is not there for that purpose) I have hacked mine so it actually stays on as long as glow time is happening and I still control/override glow time as I wish via separate timer and momentary switch. As for the smoke, easiest scenario is the air cleaner if you have ZD30 air box, that is most restrictive air box like ever (another idiotic Jap design)the air cleaner is so big that it causes the air only to enter at the side entrance to the air box so it blocks very quickly.....in layman's term the full area of the air cleaner element is not even utilized. If you can find a replacement air cleaner with smaller diameter but same height to fit in the box let us know some have tried and while they improved the efficiency the lack of correct height means that clamping force of the lid is reduced and can cause by pass.... The worst scenario for the smoking is the injectors are worn out and having faulty spray pattern or dribble fuel. By any chance yours isn't also turbo charged (non genuine) where yours is missing a smoke box aka smoke limiter or compensator on the injection pump to limit the fuel amount until turbo pushes sufficient amount of air in to combustion chambers.....typical DIY turbo retrofit btw. Regards

I can only imagine, totally understand your feelings, nothing worse then dodgy repair causing even more damage. Keep us posted on the outcome. Cheers

Another look at Warraweena, Flinder Ranges 2016 .....

From recent Easter trip to Flinder Ranges....

G'day, What model? GU/GQ, engine type ZD30/TD42/RD28/TB45....... Regards Here is ZD30 diagram to get you started ==>

G'day, If you have turbo fitted do you have a boost gauge fitted as well? That would tell you if the turbo is doing its job! Since this is the aftermarket turbo fit I can only guess that is it intercooled? Probably not so and I guess it doesn't have injection pump which compensates for turbo as well. If you have exhaust temperature gauge fitted as well you could see if there is enough fuel available by seeing higher EGTs climbing the hill ...... In any case these conversions usually only do to low boost turbo charging around 7-10 psi max therefore there isn't much to expect honestly. If not done right the expected result is only marginal increase in output over the naturally aspirated engine. Yes, there are the slugs too. You could take to specialist to have it checked on the dyno too for total output perhaps yours needs a bit a tune up (valve adjustment is critical on those). Regards

G'day mate, You"ll have more luck with these questions @ 4x4earth.com forum which is dedicated to 4WD tracks, camping spots etc. Regards

Well mine have been gutted for over 2 years, yet to experience the failure so I can go out and buy full manual hubs...... As far as spacing anything is concerned I wouldn't think so as the auto mechanism is essential loose fit in there. Regards

Look at picture with red background..... The top item on the left side is the hub part with manual mechanism inside, the bit underneath is left out of it(auto clutch). If you follow a link I posted to p4x4 thread post which includes entire job in pictorrial sequence. Regards

Just remove the assembly pictured in the first pic (it does contains extra pieces) and refit what is the actual manual locking mechanism.

Auto hubs are nothing but trouble..... having said that I recommend you to convert them to manual only which is a process taking only about 10 mins per side. All you need is large screw drive to pry out the auto locking clutch assembly out of the housing and refit the hubs. . http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/1423290-post98.html The hub on the left with the auto locking clutch removed, the hub on the right complete..... As far as current troubles, did you manually lock the hubs before removing the assembly? Also by any chance you didn't regreased them as well and being generous with the grease too? Too much grease will cause them to slip or click under load. Regards

Upgraded to one of these ==> Let there be light! I'm speechless comparing the light output of this bar to my rusted old IPF spotties..... For those interested; Aurora 20" double row combo bar Regards

G'day, welcome to the forum. Makes yourself at home and feel free to share your experiences about Nissan Patrol or 4WDriving or life in general. VP44 IPs are not the Bosch's masterpiece for sure, surprisingly though widely used prior the 'common rail' craze. The pumps pitfalls are easily managed by fitting decent lift pump and fuel cooler which sadly should have been fitted by OEMs as original design reference makes those an option where required. Regards

That's top notch buy, mate. Congrats on the find especially the GVM upgrade, me think you'll be the only legal GU loaded for trip anywhere in Oz..... You want to take the spare tyre off "barn" door before it cracks too especially if you are planning 33"s and any trips off road or on corrugations. If you need to slam it hard to get central locking working or interiror lights are staying on re-adjust the latch/striker too. Anyway, you'll be pleased with the ride and capabilities of it. Have a fun

Well no one is adding new pics so here ==>

Wow, the letter finally arrived yesterday, geez long time coming.... Anyone had it done yet, what is involved? How long they quote etc.? Regards

G'day, I don't know what it is like in GQ but on GU the adjuster for the brake shoes can be turned both ways, there is not so called auto adjuster which would normally be a part of hydraulicly actuated drum brake where movement would transfer on to a ratchet one way expander which still can be retracted. See pic attached:

G'day mate, Best bet is Sydney based "Western Filters" they sell genuine Provent 200 catch cans. Here is the link to their Patrol kit --> Nissan Patrol provent catch can kit and the general page ==> Provents kits pricey but less hassle to chase everything yourself when only getting the catch can.....and last thing you want is some home made attempt which may or may not work. I fully recommend the unit I have one and everyone else with Patrols I know has. There is this unscrupulous mob which sells Chinese knock offs via various 4WD forums for slightly less but bear in mind they're getting those from Chinese supplier for $15-20 each while they increase the price to you ten folds and you are still getting a fake. I'm not mentioning the joint but they also stir the pot in performance chips and tuning with wild promises,they steal ideas from others too like reselling Darren Dawes boost controllers as their own or claim inventions as their own. Regards

Haha, that's more like swimming than stretching.....LOL