Rumcajs

It is hard to tell, do you have a source/url? To me it looks like non vacuum controller. Cheers

The plug is tapered so if it was overtightened the result is what you are now experiencing. Very common may I add. Try what is suggested above but within a reason you don't wanna crack the gearbox housing. I wouldn't use the punch just use square end of a drive which fits, smack it with a hammer it will be kinda like an impact driver. Cheers

I'm not really sure, but considering the size and weight of Patrol I wouldn't be surprised if the both 4.5 and 4.8 L straight sixes would drink anywhere near 15 - 22 L per 100 km average depending on the situation. Most people would put those beasts on dual fuel petrol/LPG. Cheers

CrD started from 2007 onwards, the best you could ever hope for is 10 -11L but that is not easy to achieve, I've been trying, the best I ever got was 11.3 L. Non CrD actually seem to have strangely enough, better average consumption. Some CrD are absolutely atrocious around 15-18 L per 100. Acceptable average for both is around 12 L/100. Cheers

Thats 700 km a week (for 5 days) with average 12.5 L per 100 km consumption that would work out to be roughly 19 cents a kilometer if price of Diesel was $1.50 a liter, which would be $131.25 AUD a week. Staggering amount for me considering my better half is driving i30 with around 8 cents a kilometer average cost for fuel, in your case that would $52.50 AUD a week. I know which one I'd be driving lol. Cheers

It is a luck of the draw indeed. You can have it perfectly serviced and yet it will go bang. There are those who flogged it, abuse it, not bothering with any preventative measures and yet the engine is still going. Than there are those who look after it, not abusing it doing all the preventative measures and yet it goes bang and there are those who are blisfully unaware of the "ticking time bomb" they drive all with stock no mods engines waiting for the bang. Consider a case of TJM rep recently who's 2005 model (the ones which suppose to be cured of all those problems) with 245,000 km on the clock went bang, had no anti grenade mods stock as rock, serviced regularly, mostly doing black top runs. No warning signs, no issues to suggests anything wrong is about to happen. Nissan told him that anything over 140,000 km is a bonus! Great customer service ay, please hand over 10 grand to have it fixed. Major contributor is idiotic piston design and cheap alloy it is made from. Combine that with poorly designed CCV oil separation, moronic EGR system and poor/flakey engine ECU management and the results are coming in. Nissan Patrol GU , the great 4WD let down by questionable engine. To travel 140 km daily in the Patrol I hope you've got big fat valet or own a service station. lol Cheers

TD42 is heavier on fuel, around 14-15 L as opposed to ZD30 11-13 L. TBH I wouldn't use either as daily driver (I actually do drive it as such) its a pain Look the Patrol engine situation is not that good. TD42 is obsolete heavy slow but reliable long distance runer and ZD30 is high tech modern but unreliable sprinter. Than there are 4.5 L and 4.8 L petrol guzzlers. I love Patrol but the choice of the engines available chits me to tears. Cheers

As long as you are buying the TD42 version 6 cylinder 4.2 L and not 3.0 L 4 cylinder ZD30 Diesel. Especially in that year bracket. ZD30 engines really have a bad reputation for expiring early and costing heaps to fix. If you have spare 10 grand in case the engine blows up than go for it. They don't call em "grenades" for nothing. Here is a news flash for you; Nissan dealers have a national shortage on crated ZD30 replacement motors at the moment (they've run out currently) what does that suggests, you be the judge! These engines require extra modifications and extra care to handle/deal with. When they work they're OK but that uneasy feeling will remain. So if you are into fitting boost gauges, exhaust gas temperature probes and gauges, fitting bigger exhausts, blocking EGRs, fitting boost limiters, CCV catch cans, fiddle with adjustment of variable geometry turbocharger actuators, fitting glow plug timers, extra fuel lift pumps, fitting better intercoolers, bigger bonnet scoopes, belt tensioners, dual mass flywheels, ....... the bucket list gets quite long actually and thats on top of the regular maintence and before you start modding the usual fourby stuff like suspension lift..... If you are not mechanically minded and handy with spanners expect to be fleeced..... I hope I didn't scare you too much, lol

Very well done, wish I had those skills/drive or mates like that. Cheers

2012 October "Long Weekend" at Canunda NP, Robe and Beachport. Cheers

That's a sweet looking rig for sure. Cheers

"......failing in the joins and as such leaking water, zips buggering up ......." got it from shhhh ---> http://www.pradopoin...o-Oz-Tent/page3 post #28 Cheers

Cheers for the reply, as I mentioned earlier I heard about this on the radio so was just looking for opinion on that one, otherwise I wouln't have ever thought about lightning strikes and tents in one sentence. I personally don't like the look of Jet-tent it is only the folded/packed size of it which makes me think about it. Thats why I'm looking for alternatives to Oztent with the look and action of it but more compact when folded. Cheers Edit: Well after some further research it looks like there isn't realy any alternative to OZtent forthwhile to bother with, damn. The word of mouth is that Jet tent has quality issues, other alternatives aren't what I'm looking for (center poles, extra flyover) so where to now? Likely contenders: OZtent - ticks all the boxes but size when folded Austent - cheaper/crappier copy of OZtent still bulky when folded Jet tent - expensive, questionable quality, exposed frame Black Wolf Turbo - expensive, same as Jet tent but with extra flyover Oztrail Blitz - same category as above two Coleman Instant Up - cheaper, not canvas, same construction as above three. I really like OZtent system but hate its bulk when folded and I'm not the only one with that criticism.

I'm after quick no hassle tent like the Oztent but I dislike the folded/packed size of it 2m WTF! I had a look at Jettent alternative and while the size is bearable what I dislike is the exposed frame. My concern is during thunderstorms having exposed metal pipes would/could act as a conduit for the thunderbolts. This what I heard other day on radio and it now makes me think too much about it. Anyone knows/has/used alternatives to this two brands the emphasis is on quick assembly with minimal fuss.? Cheers

+1, I hate the political crap full stop, being daily bombarded with it through mass media the last thing I need/want to be facing it again here. Cheers

This forum will hopefully continue as is as I can see some unfortunate developments happening on the other one with the new owners now being Yanks with their ideas/plans. I'm sure this is just a scoop purchase to them to add to their list of sites they can make money off as they just appear to be domains squaters and renters with their ~400 forums. What that means that there will be no more individuallity and that special feel, not to mention the DMCA crapola will start soon. Some people might be celebrating but I have a feeling that soon their opinions will change. The money will talk too much I suspect and the forum will became overmoderated overcommercialised Seppo adsfest junk just like the rest of their offering. I have already deleted my garage on there and soon start removing all my contributions. Cheers

Where did you source that front bash plate, looks sweet, I wouldn't mind replacing that useless plastic on mine. Cheers

I'm sure the gearbox is fine, perhaps it is just the oil. Mine is terrible when cold, I skip shift second gear if I can. I did notice when giving the engine more revs (3000-3700) before changing the notchy shift is no more but when I try to keep it on the torque band the second gear especially it is very noticeable. I'd guess this is just another Nissan thing among myriads of other f-ups, mind you my misus's i30 (td) is outright terrible no matter what temp or revs when shifting to second gear. Well know issue apparently. I count to 3 before get to next gear to alleviate this shyte. Cheers

Mine has always been notchy particularly if the gear change isn't timed right aka the synchros need more time. I use Castrol Syntrans 75W/85 oil and it is/ seems the same as before, presuming it had a factory oil in it. However is it worth the try especially if you didn't follow "used car purchase 101" and didn;t change all the fluids/filters straight after purchase. I have never found VMX-80 claims to be true on my other cars (Holdens) so technically speaking those gearboxes have design issues than if they need to rely on special oil to shift properly IMHO. Cheers

What gamble? The forum is what members will make of it, perhaps some of us are a bit too busy than others so sometimes it seems like things aren't moving along at all. Cheers.

Bunkers Reserve, Flinders Ranges, SA.

Dawes and needle valve are the same it is just the setting up both valves you may find that because of higher vacuum the Dawes needs to be tensioned much more (read wound in) and the Needle valve a slight touch of the adjusting knob will alter how the whole setup performs. So patience and trial/error approach will be needed to get it right to your liking. Cheers

Decided that it was finally a time to purchase a battery charger after borrowing one for years from a mate ...... So got me self this you beaut Redarc unit (pricey, I didn't pay full price) but awesome as it can correctly charge all types of vehicle batteries be it standards lead acid, calcium lead acid, or gel types. Unfortunately there is nothing I can do to save Trol's genuine battery as it is now 7 years old and can't hold the charge anymore......so charged it once again before going on a quick trip this weekend (i'm gonna pack the jumper cables just in case) and than gota decide what to replace it with. Any ideas? Cheers

There is a suggestion that some NADS mods like fiddling with the stop screw on the VGT actuator is more beneficial on auto transmissions than on manual units for example. Also GU IV series have slightly different vacuum rate (read higher) than previous version so setting the Dawes valve is slightly more complicated. I'm not happy with my setup when it comes to single needle and Dawes combo as it seems to increase fuel consumption at cruising speeds (100 -110 km/h) so actually fitting dual stage boost solenoid and another Dawes is on the cards (I've been waiting for 6 weeks now for the delivery) so I can reduce the boost level at cruising stage and still have ability to get power when needed. Currently I'm running a unhappy medium of a sort that is, it is sweet around town and up to 80 km/h but who wants to cruise like that all day so I'm dreading open roads so to speak. Cheers

Welcome aboard, feel free to update your avatar, upload some pics and or details of your rig. Cheers