Rumcajs

As long as there is a room to fit one I can't see why not. Issue is, it is much easier to remove the pipe than the throttle body. That was my reasoning. Cheers

G'day and welcome to the forum. Feel free to keep us updated on the progress of the car preservation. Cheers

If I can suggest the order than: 1. catch/oil separator can 2. Pyro gauge 3. Boost gauge 4. Dawes and needle valve 5. EGR shim Remember ECU uses EGR to a degree to control boost so if blocked it will send boost sky high so to speak. You need to control boost first. Cheers

Hi Dave, welcome to the forum. Sounds like you got the better deal this time, just make sure it has all the important mods in regards to ZD30 NADS. Cheers

I'm not familiar with ARB air lockers but there is a simple way to check if they (lockers) work, jack up the axle you wanna activate the locker than engage locker and check if both wheels are turning at the same way, even get the assistant to hold one wheel steady to see if you can turn the other side. However what you are describing is more of air supply issue. Start with compressor to see if it pumps anything out to diffs. Cheers

Recently I finally finished glow plugs timer Kemo M113A from Jaycar fitment however decided to use my twist on the design from a member @P4x4 forum. I fully recommend doing this mod especially on ZD30 as the amount of time Mr Nissan keeps the glow plugs on borders/is ridiculous/insane. The subsequent damage to glow plugs, engine head etc has been well documented. Its relatively easy to do hardest part is to find courage to intercept ECU's the control wire/s. I have added my own twist by using built in dash glow indicator to let me now. Its not strictly necessary as Kemo timer has its own built in LEDs. I might connect additional momentary push button switch (Timer has a provision/terminals to connect)to stop glow plugs activation as I have noticed that "glow" happens unnecessary e.g. when coolant temp is bellow 70° but above 60° and ambient temperature is above/around 20° Cheers Note: depending where it is going to be fitted, (mine is inside) sourcing positive feed from alternative location is recommended e.g. ignition fed perhaps T-off from 12 V aux supply.

You are probably better off to get them from original sources as some who do resell them in Oz are just price gouging especially for Dawes valves. There is a number of opportunistic swines currently doing gouging/fleecing unsuspecting customers and even going that far that tacking Dawes on their Diesel chips kits as some miracle cure boost fix engine safety. Diesel Smart, Roo systems among a few, they just ripped off the whole "know how" and claiming it as their own with the price tag to match. Supplying of the shelf Diesel chip with heatshrink covered Dawes valve, some harness and EGT gauge they get from US for peanuts and charge you a fortune for the privilege, you bet it is the best thing since sliced bread/cheese whatever. As for Dual Dawes without solenoid nope you can't, I thoroughly recommend going Dual Dawes with the solenoid and needle valve and Jaycar voltage switch to control the whole setup especially on 05 Di. I've done it in stages, first Dawes only, than added needle valve and than dual Dawes with just manual switch and just recently voltage switch to automate the control but I also retained manual overide so I can decide when to have low or high boost only or both automatically controlled via throttle switch. I wish I had done the whole shebang right away. Cheers

Wow, what a story, I don't think you need to learn anything more, perhaps just refreshing your memory a little as you seem to "been, done that all" Some serious stuff. Anyway, welcome to the forum and post some pics of your new wheels if you wish. Cheers

If it is an LED inside the instrument cluster you technically cant.

Is it street legal on 37"s or is it just for off road? Love the rims BTW but I'm scared to ask $$$$. That "run of the mill" ARB bullbar makes it a little plain looking, perhaps with more aggressive like X-Rox or MIllweld bar it would stand out a bit more Cheers

Experimenting a little with it shouldn't cause too much pain. If the waste gate actuator has adjustable rod than see if changing the adjustment will give a bit extra boost because indeed that could make the whole thing more responsive at the lower end and with a bit of extra air coming in should theoretically fix your black smoke too. The turbo waste gates are usually progressive beasts that is they start to bleed the pressure slightly earlier(depends on type of turbo) during the spool up so you could delay that and have just a little extra (read quicker spool up) while using max pressure limiter to control max boost so something more manageable. Worth trying for sure if you are after a quicker response I'm not exactly sure what your setup is and what effects the increase in boost pressure or spool up rate it will have but you could technically if it is possible have quicker spool up at lower revs yet keep the boost same or marginally higher. Question is: Have such conservative boost values been set to protect the engine or the turbo or both? Cheers

I wouldn't do that as the controller is also in charge of the main tank level gauge. I'd try disconnect the wire from the controller to the display light, pin 13 that should take the light out. Cheers

Nissan—N16 Pulsar, D22 Navara, Y61 Patrol, X-Trail Airbag Inflator Expect recall letters from Nissan....... Cheers

Hello and welcome to the forum. We are nice also...... perhaps brag a little about your new wheels...... Cheers

Cheers for that,its fixed now. Cheers

Well thats gonna be better than whole motor. Here is some info about those turbos ---> Garrett VNT - Non-repair buletin.pdf and here are rebuilding kits GT15-GT25-UNIVERSAL-TURBO-REBUILD-KIT-GARRETT-GT17-GT18-GT20-GT22-PATROL-AUDI-VW Cheers

HI there, welcome to the forum and commiseration on your ZD30 grenading. Cheers

Personally the number one DIY would be Provent catch can, followed by EGR fix(it gets complicated on CrDs ZD30). CrD don't respond well to needle valves and Dawes valves but you can always try to see if you can tweak it a bit. Another important part is EGT gauge so you can see how far you are taking it. Cheers

Fitted another work/reverse/camping light because two are better than one Cheers

Good on ya mate, screw Nissan stealers/thieves. Cheers

I'd fit solid flywheel and HD clutch instead of DMF and Nissan's excuse for a clutch right away. The benefits far outweigh the negatives but again it depends on how fussy you are. The main benefits/reasons for DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) are: Reduced vibration in the motor and the driveline Torque/shock loads dampening on the transmission (less attention on clutch engagement habits) all these are excuse for cheap lousy engineering and shortcuts to save money at the expense of the customers. The main negatives reasons for DMF are: Expensive Weak Limited service life Unreliable Solid flywheel conversions Negatives: Vibrations at low RPM under load Harsh torque/shock load on the driveline (more attention on clutch engagement) Positives: Cheaper, Long term service life Simplicity Reliable Repairable Cheers

I hope I didn't scare you that much, but its better to know what is one getting oneself in to. I too found out about ZD30 grenade issues after I bought the bloody thing. TBH I haven't had any dramas with mine so far (touch wood) and about the only complaint I have is how gutless the engine feels especially when asked to perform and its actually warm to hot ambient temp. I've done the NADS, modded exhaust, bigger inter-cooler, bigger bonnet scoop, but so far I haven't seen the results I've been after. I've drawn the line at the performance chip though no way I'm forking out such sums to than worry even more about the engine self destructing. I ignore the pimply dash, lack of load carrying capacity and generally don't complain about off road capability except when in the sand dunes as sometimes the lack power from the engine is simply defeating my efforts to plough through. I'll have ZD30 powered Nissan over any Toyo anytime and I'm not what you could call a brand zealot for sure. Everytime I look at Toyo I see shortcuts, cheap engineering and terrible design at overinflated prices. If the "never been in 4x4 mode call" is genuine than work the lady and see what will happen but you are right "there are plenty of fish in the pond". Cheers

TBH I'd rather run brand new aftermarket A/C hoses all the way from the engine bay A/C compressor to the back than pay Nissan a cent/dime. All you gonna replace it with the same shitty thin pipes which will again rub on the long range fuel tank somewhere because the Nissan experts are going to F it up again. But I'd guessed you wanna have it done so you are going to fork out a fortune what 2 grand for 2 pipes and how much for labour $$$$ so you can have A/C fixed because aftermarket people are scared. Nothing like incompetent f withs. Good luck with it. Cheers

LOL, I don't think so, it will be a while before I'm Patrol guru......

Looking at the specs it seems the lowest ratio is 3.9, standard was 4.1. There should be a code on the VIN plate like axle type H233B 41 (41 means 4.1 ratio) thats how it is on GU I'm not that sure about GQ. Cheers