Rumcajs

Here you go.... VSR Nissan Patrol Y61 R1306 What is Nissan shyting its pants about is that if the accelerator pedal signal is lost ECm will go to idle mode which will/could result in sudden deceleration which can cause accidents especially if it happens without warning in heavy traffic so liabilities are enormous. What is more interesting is the part where they note that this can cause the engine to stall which brings the steering and brake assistance failure with another serious accident. There have been hints about this recall for a few months and if you've gone to Nissan dealers and ask about it they'd deny all knowledge of it. Typical dishonest Japanese behaviour/response! Cheers

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Actually, that's a fallacy! You don't need Patrol or Cruiser to do a trip like that. Even Mitsu Challenger or Triton would be more than good enough and much cheaper to obtain and run. I'd avoid Pathfinder though, Prado is also OK especially earlier series. Personally I'd get a couple of years old Triton or older Ranger, upgrade suspension, get a long range fuel tank and off I go. Patrol and Landcrab are overkill if you are not in to large 4WDs. As for Patrol, I have one for 3 years and let me tell you that if I have known I need to mod so much on the car to have it worked/drive semi decently I wouldn't have bothered: Boost and EGT gauges to keep an eye on it catch can to keep oil out of the intake manual boost control to correct stupid factory control 3" exhaust to get some torque out it, Bigger intercooler to keep EGTs down and power up when ambient temps are up glow plugs timer to save glow plugs and engine head JDVM MAF voltage modbox to get more power under right revs and to avoid boost limps front auto locker to get some traction Lifted suspension to get some clearance in the arse end reinforced coil towers ...... Its endless mods after mods to try stay ahead of either lack of power or reliability or missing features.... While my mates are laughing at me driving stock Luxes, Tritons and Navaras blowing me off in the sand dunes, on open roads or on the beaches. I laugh at them at rock climbs or gulleys crossings..... Its embarrassing sometimes but I love my Patrol. My only bug bears are more engine power and reliability and better manual transmission. Cheers

G'day mate welcome to the forum. Well as for the advice, 2.8 L are very sensitive to correct maintenance and correct repairs which sadly usually are not done so they're really money pits especially with cracking/warped heads, loose balancers etc. Underpowered with strange torque band (they rev like petrol engine) I'd avoid them altogether. 3.0 L well what can I say about the dreaded grenade? If you are going to get one get the one with automatic transmission (after you modded torque converter lock up and fixed line pressure solenoid)it is better matched to ZD30 engine, manual box simply got idiotic ratios spread and its a dog to drive especially in the sand. Try to get one with low kilometers and make sure it has all the NADS mods which can test your patience. It is still a lottery though when it comes to reliability with the dreaded Di, I'd be looking at the last of 4 series 2006 models. Common rail versions are more reliable but a lack of a draw when it comes to fuel consumption there are some terrible ones with 17-18 L per 100 km fuel guzzling, aim for the post 2008 models. 4.2 L are sluggish, thirsty, expensive (overpriced actually) heavy and apart for overheating they go forever. In stock form they're known for their ability to get you there but don't rush. Very reliable with minimal electronics so highly sought after in the bush.To get serious power out of them means expensive hardware mods. Owning a Patrol requires mechanical skills, shed and ability to do things yourself otherwise they're very expensive vehicles if you have to pay someone else to do the maintenance and mods. It also requires you to have a special affection for them because while they're cheaper than say Toyo to obtain you'll get what you are paying for. Obsolete truck like vehicle which is good in tough places sometimes but a dog to drive as a daily or sealed roads unless you are in to truck driving. All post 04 dashboards fry in the sun/heat and get bubble rash which looks like small pox disease. There has been recall on them for last 7 years and they're still shyte, the unit replaced several years ago are breaking heat rash already again... Now they have passenger airbags pyrotechnic unit recall. All GU Patrols have terrible load carrying capacity (550 kg only)and breaking rear spring towers if overloaded very easily. Manual gearbox and transfer case is bullet proof, so are the diffs, everything else makes you cringe from terrible plastic trims to squeaky/rattly dashboards to endless front end shakes/wobbles to spongy brakes. Did I mention rattles? All the early GUs with more than 160 K on the clock with 2.8 and 3.0 L engines should be avoided unless you have spare 10 grand to bring them up to mechanical goodness. Ideally you are looking for GU with 4.2 L with a widow driving it on rare occasions with total distance ~80 K and always garaged, never been off road and having no sense of value of the vehicle. Good luck with that. Enjoy. Cheers

That's factory glow plugs power cable from glow plug relay if it is connected to the plug at the front of intercooler. Looks like it has been bypassed either because OEM system failed or/and someone added extra control instead of factory ECU. This is common on ZD30 but not that way (bypassing factory glow plugs control) as ECU keeps glowing plugs for about 5 minutes after engine has been started. This is really bad for the engine and plugs reliability but good for emission control. It is suppose to keep emissions down while engine is running cold but that degree of glow is just ridiculous. Most diesel engines have about 30 seconds glow time after start. A lot of people fit aftermarket timer (Kemo 113A) to control the glow time but it is done on the ground side from the ECU to the the glow relay. Very effective mod and cheap too. Sometimes they connect indicator wire to the buzz bar (glow rail) to have an actual indicator of glow plugs being powered. That would be my 2 cent worth. Cheers

G'Day, welcome to the forum. Feel free to post your adventures, experiences and misfortunes if any in relevant sections of the forum. Cheers

Hi there, welcome to the forum. Looks like you are pretty much well setup, Enjoy Patroling. Cheers

Reloaded firmware in the ECUTalk LCD display unit so now have "fuel temperature" to worry about..... I love that unit; audible warnings ability have saved ZD30 a few times (coolant temp, RPMs) speed and odo can be calibrated correctly, DTCs read out on the fly, Cheers

"Oil pump bolts" issue is only suppose affect early CrD ZD30 from 07 to 08. It is clearly assembly quality control issue as oppose to incompetent design and cheap manufacturing to appease emission control laws. These are not the same. ZD30 CrD units are not failing at the same rate as previous Di units and can certainly tolerate conditions under which early versions would self destruct. What this indicates is that the design and perhaps materials from which for example the CrD pistons are made is probably the key ingredient and also the more advanced control system which deals with AFRs more efficiently than the pathetic MAF system only. This however makes no difference to the reputation of ZD30 indeed most late high speed Diesel engines suffer from the similar issues. The emission control is the devil which makes modern Diesels so unreliable comparing to old "lumps of iron". Cheers

Injectors trim codes are directly entered in to ECM, I hope you have recorded them as which injector with its corresponding code is in which cylinder. Normally these are stamped somewhere near the electrical plug or possibly came with some documentation enclosed with each injector. Unfortunately you do need to visit Nissan dealer they will program the trim values using their Consult interface. Possibly visiting a Bosch fuel injection specialist might be able to assist as well. This should not require them to touch anything as far as EGR, Dawes or needle valve. Cheers

Geez I forgot about that one, yep thoroughly recommend it if you have no access to drill, oxy and silver solder. Cheers

All is not lost but you just have extra work to do. It appear that you can turn engine over with head installed but not camshafts so you can use this without damage(leave glow plugs out). I'd fit it all (timing chain, idler gear) back temporarily to the same spot as prior removal but would not fit camshafts and than rotate the engine to correct position than check if timing marks align than drop the chain and idler gear and refit/reset with the cams. So long the crankshaft and injection pump are on No1 TDC you can manipulate the rest of the valve train. Cheers

I didn't do them either. They're dust seals so if not damaged, hardened or anything else wrong than just put them back in. Cheers

Fit catch can first, than EGT and boost gauge followed by Dawes, Needle Valve and EGR shim and rest of the mods. Than check glow plugs, fit timer for it and than JDVM. It will transform the car, Cheers

The arguments are widespread but it seems the harder you flog it the longer it lasts. ZD30 hates to be babied and especially it hates to be lagged. Most of them expire while they cruise at 100 kays an hour with low boost high EGTs scenario so a light to medium throttle. So I guess working them hard means that EGR is working less and the boost keeps higher and EGTs lower. The piston design is a major weakness IMHO and it makes sense that they expire when heat rises during overfuelling but it does seem to be a results of incremental overheating of the piston which eventually leads to a failure. Cheers.

On TB45 it apears the similar, the pin C/3 should be MAF signal to pin 27 ECM so voltage around 1.3 - 1.8 at idle* 2.1 - 2.5 at 2,500 rpm* the other pins, pin D/4 ground to pin 26 at ECM and pin B/2 voltage supply 12V. This is my educated guess because thats how it is wired on GU TB45. If you have access to multimeter it shouldn't be that hard to establish which pin is which. Cheers

This is common issue on GU 4 series. Bad switches chattering and wearing out their contacts. The resistor block is there to limit the chattering nothing else. There is a Nissan service/maintenance bulletin about this with affected vehicles VIN numbers. Apparently the fix is to replace both senders and the resistor. Resistor is around $130 and each sender around $35. It is actually easy to locate which sender is misbehaving as they're a simple single wire type conecting to ground when oil pressure is off. The resistor is mounted behind the plastic trim panel next to accelerator pedal.

Good stuff, if you wanna take it to the next level than built yourself Jaycar Digital Voltage modifier kit and splice in to MAF signal to manipulate it. Than observe the transformation and go OMFG why did I waste money on Diesel chip. It does require some skills to assemble and tweak afterwards but the results are nothing short of spectacular. Cheers

I only use phone camera when I don't have "normal" one on me which normally I always carry on any occasion I expect to take some snaps. The phone pics are crappy enough to look at but I'd never print those. I did take some shots with GoPro 2 but it is nothing spectacular. I don't think I'd justify SLR unit costs or willingness to carry one around as they're too big and bulky for my liking. I do like the quality of shots though there is no comparison with anything the p&s cameras can muster IMHO. Cheers

I don't know what r type boost gauge is but here is a pic how I did mine .....

LOL, Glort you have a way with words mate. I wouldn't buy turbo timer personally but obtained this one next to nothing. It is 6 wire unit ( it has an opton for park brake). I know that Patrol's subtank module is not turbo timer friendly so wanted to just see how Bogaard does it hence my interest in seeing how the "plug n play" module is done. I am also not friend of soldering in to wiring looms, I've seen too much damage caused, beside I also want to have the unit removed in the future so idea of hard wiring/soldering it in doesn't appeal to me at all. I normally idle down the engine by EGT drop (150 degrees C) which normally correspond to about 3 minutes under most circumstance. Having turbo timer is just going to be more of convenience than anything else. Cheers

Well, I've contacted Bogaard directly and was politely told to fcuk off since they do supply plugs with the unit for Patrols they can't help me to source them, go figure. ( I thought instead of cutting looms and whatnot I could just make it "plug n play" so the generic 925/ST5 could be turned in to 925/GU unit. Also asked them to at least advise which plug they connect the unit to, apparently they don't know. What a bunch of tossers. The only piece of info they told me is that the unit I've got can be used on Patrol. Wow, thanks for stating the obvious you bloody experts. Came across one forum member at "nissanpatrol dot com dot au" forum who just fitted the plug n play one so I asked him to take a photo of the install, haven't heard back from him. So looks like I'm gonna have to make my own harness. It shits me to tears when I have to "reinvent the wheel" but I guess that's expected as those bastards want me I buy another complete unit instead of giving away a little bit of information. Bogaard is of the X-mass cards list.......... Anyway rant over! Cheers

The problem with OME is they don't do 3" lift kit. Anyway it is possible that your setup has come with sports shocks. Harsh ride ensues. You can get so called comfort shocks and the ride is softer and more comfortable. For some reason the ARB sales idiots are pushing everyone on to sports shocks instead of explaining to customers that there is an option for softer ride without compromising on anything else. Cheers

Back in June I have managed to cross Simpson desert, West to East via French line. Awesome adventure. Drove all the way to Alice Springs to spectate at Finke Desert Race 2013. Camped alongside the track for three days than headed through Finke to Mt Dare than across. Everything went smoothly but the track was heavily corrugated and badly dug out. (I guess all those people with camper trailers) Anyway here are some pics.... Patrol at Big Red Patrol at French line Patrol at Breakaways, Coober Pedy Birdsville pub Poeppels corner Simpson desert national park entrance in Queensland Somewhere in the Simpson desert Finke desert race start line Camping at Finke Ultimate off-road tow truck

Hi welcome to the forum. I'd recommend to fit Provent catch can in near future. Very good investment and on yours it is possible so long you have 03 engine to plumb the return (drain)straight to engine block so you don't have bother with draining it. Cheers