Rumcajs

DP chip does not take over boost control. The only Diesel chips which have anything to do with the boost are ones from CHIP IT and Super Diesel Smart or that's what they claim. Their claims seem a little dubious not to mention they're little shy on information if not dodgy for websites as well. Cheers

I have seen them on a few vehicles but I really have no idea on what they're like. They seem to sell/export to overseas as well and actually make stuff for all kind of vehicles (trucks, buses, trailers) They had good reviews in 4WDAction mag tests but honestly anything that mob comes up with can be biased. If they make that stuff in Australia than I'd givem a go over Iron Man cause that's all Chinese stuff if the price is comparable. Cheers

Use "pointy nose" pliers and just unscrew them out, they're threaded and easily undone you'll see 4 slots to engage pliers. You are meant to replace them too. Also each plug should have a resistance 0.5 Ohm between the post terminal and ground at 20°C. So if there is no resistance at all aka open circuit than there is a fault in the plug. If I read your post correctly than number 4 is the possibly one working. Measuring a Voltage drop is different to measuring a resistance. . Cheers

Iron man is budget wise so you'll get what you're paying for, Dobinson is apparently hit and miss affair and the Anarchy thingo well look at the cost vs saving ratio. If the price is too good to be true than you know. If really on the budget than perhaps Iron Man is the ticket. Cheers

There should be another screw holding the assembly on the indicator side, it is accessible from underneath (or is on mine as I don't have factory bumper anymore it is clearly visible when looking from under the bullbar in my case). Cheers

There is nothing you can do now but fitting boost and especially EGT gauge will assist you in keeping an eye on the engine. EGTs are crucial to keep as low as possible so drive accordingly to the EGT gauge. Fitting catch can, EGR shim and Dawes/needle valve, cleaning inlet manifold, fitting glow plugs timer or manual overide is just a beginning. Cheers

Hi all, Anyone got Bogaard 925/GU unit fitted to their Patrol? Any chance you may have a wiring diagram/instructions or perhaps could take a photo of electrical connections especially the "plug n play" to existing Nissan harness. I have a generic(universal) 925/ST-5 unit and it would greatly assist me in the installation especially because I have to cut wires. Cheers

Roof sliders? Planning for Vic snow country sled adventures? Cheers

Aaand, converting the auto hubs to manual only is a 15 mins job and is reversible. Cheers

Well with glow plugs, it is funny business because there are both metal and ceramic tips available and yes you probably need to replace all 4 of them. I replaced mine recently and two were dead and two still fine. *The metal glow plugs will not last for long (expect max 50K km at most)but can be had very cheaply as low as $20 for a set (nasty) or $30 a piece (better) *The ceramic plugs are very expensive only NGK brand is available (or Nissan OEM which are NGK again but even more expensive) around $65-75 a piece but they will last 100,000 km or more. The ceramic units are more fragile and are known to drop a tip in to the combustion chamber if certain conditions exist. The biggest problem with glow plugs however is their control system for which Mr Nissan should be "hanged, drawn and quartered" It is in fact the control system which contributes to the glow plugs early or catastrophic failure. Nissan uses the glow plugs excessively (up to 5 minutes) after the engine has been started to keep smoke under control when engine is cold. This combined with poorly designed engine (pistons, intake, EGR) and poor fuel spray pattern from worn injectors can also cause engine head cracks around the glow plug holes which ain't the best for overall system health. So, do not fit new glow plugs until you have fitted "glow plug timer" mod which stops the plugs wearing out prematurely especially when fitting cheaper metal tipped ones. (See Dronus' NADS pages about the timer mod) I have decided to fit ceramic tipped ones back again recently, with the timer mod carried out at the same time they should last another 200,000 km minimum. With the timer I have a full control over glow time (more sensible 30 seconds), I can override it as well when needed with an addition of kill switch, example even at the ambient temperature way over 20 degrees C Nissan will still glow the plugs even though it is not needed at all. It is relatively simple and cheap mod it is just a bit fiddly to do. Cheers

Firstly coolant change is always a source of airlock in the system which causes temporary overheating. Watching coolant gauge is pointless as the gauge is set not to react until temp is too high and is too late. Really bad idea from Nissan but Toyo is the same. If you didn't have a coolant level drop after the change and didn't need to top up than you got away with. ZD30s are known for glow plugs failures so it is entirely possible that white to light grey smoke is just unburned fuel when engine is cold especially if it is harder to start or it runs a bit rough first thing. You can also smell unburned Diesel in the exhaust sometimes. I'd suggest to monitor the coolant level and perhaps check the resistance of each glow plug to pintpoint the faulty ones. Usually no 3 and 4.

So you have replaced just an engine, what about transmission? I'd start with obvious things like is everything connected as it should be? Cheers

Yes, you are correct this will not work without some panel alterations aka it is not straight fit replacement. Cheers

Well I don't have the experience with TD42 but the answer would probably be in your line: Lead foot ...... Cheers

2013 should be GU8 series. For dash board stripping you can use older manual, that's all the same. There are changes to suspension and brakes, part of ESP package so out goes LSD and in comes rear factory locker as standard I'm led to believe. So perhaps changes to ABS in that order. There maybe some upgrades to engine ECM and fuel injection but it is basically the same on the outside all just minor tweaks. Nissan is only flogging the dead horse now in other words waiting for the Y61 series to go become obsolete by the 2016 unless they decide to put newer motor in as ZD30 will not comply with EU5. Cheers

I considered Stauns for the same reasons but apparently they aren't set and forget units as one might think and indeed they're great if you deflate your tyres to same give or take couple of PSI pressure but the convenience goes out of windows when there is a need for different pressures. The flexibility of EZ-Deflator unit outweighs the convenience of Stauns IMHO. Cheers

I've considered those deflators but after reading a number of opinions on them I decided to go with classic ARB deflator (see pic bellow) However than I found Ferret deflator and thats one I ought to have gone for. Cheers

Well, this seems to be ongoing theme with Nissan steal$rships. Incompetence, arrogance and sheer stupidity on their part is simply astounding. It is also fairly typical to blame any accessories fitted as a root cause of any issues reported. Anyway it was funny to read the exchange. Good luck with it.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Sometimes it seems to be less populated but that is not necessarily bad thing. There may be an influx of people again because it looks like there is a revolt brewing on another Patrol forum in regards to Tapatalk app use is not allowed anymore so who knows ..... Cheers

Almost feel like saying, are the tyres loosing grip? Or is it one of the suspension components moving/worn? Cheers

This ain't the whole manual but something similar to Y62 training manual -->ZD30 CRD 2008 training academy If you wanna get manual you'll need to sign up to that site --> www.nissanpatrol.com.au You'll need to have at least 25 posts against you name and than you can download the full workshop manual. Easy to do, introductions about yourself and your rig, couple of opinions on subjects you are well versed in and presto. It won't be the latest version (2013) but a lot applies anyway. Probably yours being under warranty you don't wanna start fiddling with it just yet.

I have a feeling they will not find anything as this issue seem to pop its head on a few Patrols. If they do though, keep as posted. Cheers

Mine has the same/similar thing at low speed mainly coming to stop and turning at the same time. I tried to locate the source but to no avail. It's been like that for ages and I just gave up, see what breaks! I have also noticed when front mudflap popped out its mounting (easily happens) it makes a racket at full lock as tyre rubs on it. Cheers

From the last two weeks trip to Simo...... At Breakaways, Coober Pedy French Line, Simpson Desert At "Big Red"

You'll need adjustable front and rear panhard rods, adjustable upper trailling arms for the rear axle, radius arms to suit the lift for the front axle and or drop boxes, extended brake lines, extended diff breathers, extended brake proportioning valve bracket , possibly new drag link and of course extended sway bar links if your has them. For 35" you'll probably need rear adjustable lower control arms as well. Big money around 4 grand worth of kit all while trying to stay legal which can be questionable with all those addons. Cheers