Rumcajs

Inline pump will have 6 injecting elements "inline" in the straight line in 6 injector lines at the pump will be arranged on top one after another Rotary pump will have injector lines coming out sideways towards back arranged in a circle Here inline pump for 4.2L ==>

No worries bud, You take care too and all the best. Cheers

G'day, welcome to the forum. Firstly is yours NA (naturally aspirated) or turbo charged motor? Blowing white smoke is usually unburned fuel from unfinnished combustion. The description of the fault sounds it could be something to do with pump timing being retarded perhaps. Is your pump inline type or rotary? Inline pump should have timer mechanism aka timing adjuster perhaps is not working properly. Cheers

Oops, that's not good that rust. So it has either been some manufacturing issue (surface preparation)or you spend a lot of time on the beach, LOL. I've been eyeing those slider for a while now, this makes me think twice, I frequently visit beach so now I'm not so sure. Have you asked Bolsy about that? Cheers

Are those sliders from Bolsy's? If so, any dramas fitting them? Straight fit? Cheers

Looks like your clutch is not disengaging fully. Possible causes could be lever, hydraulic cylinders (master/slave) or combination of both. Cheers

You will find that your biggest problem isn't the bolts but the bell housing (starter motor hump) hitting the transmission tunnel/body before being able to extract transmission. You actually need to rotate the gearbox almost of 1/4 of a turn to clear the body. Removing low range section makes it easier. This gearbox is absolute PITA to handle apparently I hope you have decent transmission jack and good luck. I had a look at mine and I don't wanna get involved TBH. Remember to undo the "hardest to get to" bolts first. Cheers

Hi there, welcome to the forum. Feel free to share the tips and experience. Cheers

Finally replaced and moved trailer socket to more secure location . Geez, this looks like my personal built thread No one is doing anything to their Patrols eh....

EGT gauge is more imortant IMHO. I don't even look at the boost gauge anymore unles there is a problem. Cheers

Hi welcome to the forum, Indeed, little quiet forum, originally setup as a backup for P4x4 or so it seemed at the time. Feel free to contribute with your aventures. Cheers

It is illegal to tamper with SRS equipment/remove steering wheel airbag, as for the clock spring there shouldn't be issue finding out correct wires and tap in to them for horn buttons. SRS Airbag cable is ussually in it own armored cable/clock spring and horn buttons on their own. I'm not sure how it is on Patrols though. Cheers

Fitted one of these --> Pity about fecking around because hole for the locking clip is too small (it costs per mm to manufacture me guessing) and chasing right terminals (couldn't include them in the box it would break the bank I suppose ) Off to chase Engel fridge power plug to graft on to Waeco fridge power cord....Yay Its never ending Cheers

Hi welcome to the forum. If you are considering NADS than do it. Well worth it especially when you know how to drive it by using EGT gauge. Taking control of turbo away from ECU is another bonus in performance department. Most of us are doing the mods ourselves so I can't help you with advice as to who can do it for you. Most garages have no idea so unless you come across a cluey Patrol owner/mechanic in one of those garages who can assist than.... Owning Patrol can get very expensive if one is not handy with spanners. Cheers

Finished off dual batteries wiring...

Ripped out wiring for aux battery, replaced burned out Redarc solenoid (dodgy installation by prior owner/s I guess they had it done by some superstar profesional sparkie ) , fitted 2 circuit breakers, fitted heatshield to aux battery and replaced crappy factory earth/ground terminal. All ready for wiring it up next.

Bought replacement fan for intercooler (old one is rattling in to pieces) and spare 17 alloy wheel (Nissan). Already had spare tyre (Bridgestone D693) so now fitted it together with another spare which was never used since new from factory. So now have 2 new wheels/tyres on the rear axle.

I set the alarms for everything I could, coolant temp 95° C, RPM 4200, batt voltage 10.5 V. Recently I was driving in really deep sand and completely paid no attention to anything but getting bogged except when alarm started going off on coolant and RPMs. Backed off quick smart. Cheers

Changed oil and filters, finally fitted spill line mod.

Well, there is a sequence to installing NADS and TBH at 230,000 Km its a little bit too late if you are orignal owner since new. What is probably happening is that Dawes has been set too high (in excess 18 psi) and MAF voltages also play a part your seems like that but you wouldn't know when you have no boost gauge. All is needed is to slacken the lock nut and back the adjusting knurled end in small increments let say 1/2 turn and see what happens. The ugley truth is that blocking EGR is actually main cause of overboosting and limps and Dawes is suppose to suppres those spike. The factory boost solenoid controls/affects the boost via EGR as well. When EGR opens boost is reduced by altering exhaust turbine vanes and turbo exhaust pressure increased to assist in feeding exhaust gases in, hence the turbine spool is "bled off". Once the EGR is blocked the bleed process is not there and turbo keeps overboosting or so is the theory. It is well known that EGR system can/is used to alter/limit/manipulate turbo boost. As for the reputable company there you have it, they needed to advise you that in order to have EGR shimmed and boost control fitted you should have had boost gauge fitted first/simultaniously. Sequence order is 1. Boost and EGT (pyro)gauges so you can actually see what is happening and react to it first. Low boost+ high EGTs= engine failure later so you can back off/change how you drive. 2. Catch can (to stop oil mist from crankcase breather mixing with EGR gases and carbonising/depositing in the inlet manifold and inlet ports restricting airflow) 3. Dawes, needle valve and EGR fix to remove that idiotic boost control of factory setup and have more responsive vehicle (caution fuel consumption can be affected at higher speeds) 4. ...... 5. ......... So far you have been lucky especially cause ZD30s are lottery some last for a long time some blow up at earliest opportunity (stock one). What kills them are long cruises down the highway at 100 km/h when EGR opens boost drops off and EGTs skyrocket. If you don't wanna know what is happening to your truck while driving than don't bother with NADS. Deal with the grenade problem when it happens eventually if ever. I'm sorry but not wanting to know what is happening especially in case of ZD30 is gonna come back to haunt you eventually Patrol with ZD30 is probably a wrong car/truck to own in that case. When comparing similar cars unfortunately some are just more sensitive and react with limps when settings don't agree. No one car is alike. You are not the only one with this problem. Cheers

Interesting, worth trying I guess. Cheers

Firstly which GU model is yours? Is it automatic transmission? Secondly do you have boost gauge fitted and what boost you are getting? You probably experienced the dreaded Dawes valve bounce. So wind Dawes back a bit to scale the pressure down. Also do you still retain factory VNT solenoid control or do you have needle valve fitted and factory system bypassed? If using needle valve than you have the spool up too aggressive. The bit I don't like is "Dawes valve fitted by a reputable company." Most of those reputable clowns just have "NFI" while trying to ride the "gravy train" of Dawes valve boost control mods. Its not that simple. Let me tell you that for best results you need both Dawes and needle valve fitted and in some cases more drastic action of setting VNT stop screw (highly not recommended) to reduce max turbo vanes opening to limit turbo spool up further to reduce the chance of limp. As a last resort Jaycar digital voltage modifier (very complex mod) is used not only to improve performance by interupting and modifying MAF voltages (primary source of limps) but also getting rid of limp issues. Some ZD30 are simply too sensitive it seems, auto transmission equiped units especially. Please supply more information about your truck type, any mods etc. Cheers

Fitted HPD high flow MAF housing. Need to retune JDVM now looks like a time consuming trial and error setup or I need access to dyno and diesel chip as well. Cheers

Hello there on the other side of the world. Welcome to the forum, feel free to share your experiences. Cheers

Wow, now you have me worried, I've got those in kitchen and bathroom about 5 years old. Cheers