Rumcajs

Do you wanna take a pic of the said bolt as I'm having a bit of trouble imagine it. Cheers

DMFs are an excuse for manufacturers not beefing up the driveline when engine torque and horse power goes up during the models life (usually). ZD30 in Navara is derated hence no need for DMF. I'd definately want a right cluch and flywheel in Patrol so I wouldn't f about with it. Patrol is much heavier than Navara (perhaps ute isn't) but still I wouldn't wanna do the job twice with twice the cost. Cheers

Problem is also the material, its too thin and constant heat expansion/contraction with vibrations finnishes the rest. Cheers

Here is the stupid card which Nissan thinks is "get out of jail card". Cheers

Having different offset is interesting dilema, are you sure they're for the same model? To me it looks like they are for different model while they look the same. What are the offsets? Cheers Edit: Just went to look at mine, according to manual the only rims having different offset are the 16" unit. The 17" are same for all +10 mm.

This is just another of long line of problem for Nissan, can't these morons do anything right! Usual culprits for a wheel coming off (almost exclusively the passenger side) is either incorrect tension or incorrect centering of the wheel (there is a small locating lip on the hub on to which rim needs to be seated) which causes the wheel nuts to not being able to be seated correctly. Pay attention to this centering/locating as well(it is easily overlooked) and you will have no issue. I agree it is a bad design. Cheers

I'm sorry I can't help you with suggestions in regards to specialist in Canberra. It appears you are having the dreaded CrD fuel guzzler. Causes are not definite as only a few were willing to spend the serious coins the injectors and the pump command. One bloke in WA had similar high fuel usage but after he filled up with bad fuel and ruined the whole fuel system, he had the high pressure pump, injectors and whatnot replaced under insurance claim (about $7 grand total if I can remember) and the fuel economy returned back to 10-11 L. Thats a lot of fuel to go through about 4,375 Litres at $1.60 per Liter of Diesel which would make for up 39,772 km travelled if fuel consumption was 11.0 L. I tend to think that it is probably injectors as their pilot phase(they're multi stage injection) can leak/drips fuel which contributes to significant fuel consumption. Number of CrD Patrols also didn't have the injector trim codes recorded in the ECU from factory as well which could be another source of high fuel consumption. Nissan is turning blind eye claiming its probably all the accesories people hang onto Patrol but I'm sure they're just dodging waranty claims as usual. Cheers

Nice bling .

Congratulations, all the best Cheers

Main tank 95 L subtank 30 L combined = 125. I'm guessing 125 L to 1100 km = 11.4 L per 100 km which is just about where stock OEM Di are(no bullbar, roof rack etc.). Unless of course you are saying that after you fill up with 110 L you can travel 1100 km. That makes me jealous. I'd love the 10l/100 km fuel consumption. I'm averaging between 11.3 (best) to 13.2 (worst) Cheers

Finally pulled my finger.....and fitted second Dawes and 2 stage solenoid. Hooray now I have ability to bring my EGTs ridiculously high at will or thats what I observed so far. Looks like fine tuning is in order, I left second Dawes set at 7 psi just to see what is going to happen if left like that. Cheers

Before you buy look in here --> Nissan Patrol complaints

Mr Nissan will bill you for $ 2 K just for the DMF plus another $1500 or so for clutch. Aftermarket clutch kits + flywheel from $1800 upwards from reputable shops. Going on Ebay perhaps even less. or give these people a call ---> Australian clutch services Cheers

The reason was the previous owner was a stingy cheap ass. Get/do it properly. I don't think you need to increase the cranking capacity at the expense of getting both batteries flat when using accessories. Cheers

If you have a stock/OEM clutch than you are in for flywheel replacement too as those DMF (dual mass flywheel ought not to be machined) If you go OEM parts than you'll need new DMF ($$$$$) I'd go for solid flywheel and hd clutch to go in as do not want to do that job again. It is utter PITA to do in the back yard if not near impossible. It is hard to do on the hoist as transmission needs to be partially rotated to get in/out or you'd have to remove transfer case first to make it a little bit easier to handle. If you are not handy with spanners, have appropriate tools and know your way around cars/trucks I'd recommend to have it done at reputable place. Cheers

CrD (Common rail) didn't come out till early 2007, looking at intercooller CrD will have two reinforcing/mount bars running from the front body cross member. Di is mounted directly on the engine with huge silver cover with green letters. Ouch, consider NADS asap but if it isn't CrD than damage is already done. Lies,lies,lies.... intercooler is leaking exactly where those dark stains are! Those pricks know it and i'd guessed trying to wiggle out of useless Nissan waranty That oil stain on the turbo is from CCV (closed crankcase ventilation) oil mist no amount of hose clamp doing tighter will fix. Get "catch can" asap. I don't wanna be a bearer of bad news but something is very fishy with your d$aler/st$aler. Cheers Attached pic shows "non common rail" Nissan Patrol ZD30.

Those figures are scary, that works out roughly 20 L/100 km, the previous figure was about on the ball park for Di around 11.8 L/100. I get average 12.5 mixed urban highway cycle. Worst I ever got was 13.7 with the strong side wind blowing most of the trip. You either have very heavy foot or there is something wrong for sure. Do you have NADS modifications? Boost gauge would show you if you are not getting enough boost and EGT gauge would inform you how too much of go pedal you are applying. With the intercooler leaking so much that it would affect performance and economy you'd hear whistling noise everytime turbocharger spools up. Most if not all OEM intercooler leak as the cheap mass production design is weak and tube crack where they're joining the ends. If you can see black/dark what looks like carbon patches around the ends that where the cracks are. I'd be changing/checking fuel filter just in case especially when using fuel additives some dislodge all sorts of crap deposited in the fuel tank which than blocks fuel filter. I'm using Chemtec Diesel Power regularly and I noticed fuel consumption going down when using it. You may have had picked up a bad batch of fuel somewhere along your travels, Queensland service stations are famous for that shyte, every truck we get down here (South Oz) with bad fuel problems had fueled up somewhere in Queensland. Cheers

I'm very curious about this, but I don't wanna experiment to the point of actually causing a damage to the engine as we all know ZD30 is rather fragile, in any case my goals are mainly the engine preservation and and fuel consumption reduction. Have you noticed a fuel consumption going down or am I completely wrong here to even expect such result. I also wonder if a mixture of methanol and water is the way to go for added power increase. Cheers

The new toy eh, I'm not sure I'd wanna start again Cheers

Sshhh, there may be a few more yet again, P4x4 is down today......

Blocked fuel return line, how? Unless it is kinked somewhere in the chassis perhaps. Easy to test, disconnect than run the engine to see where it smokes, I personally have never seen the return line blocked in all my years working on trucks, perhaps Nissan is special. I believe you run the old girl on bio Diesel/veg oil which could be contributing to premature wear of the pump, injectors. You need to start with basic. Check actual fuel pressure, confirm the return line is not blocked by disconnecting it at convenient place and see if any fuel comes out or use compressed air to blow through. Is yours the so called inline IP? Cheers

Engine heat is a killer for any battery, have a look at OEM setup it has nice cooling duct. I'm on my second aux battery while still have the factory original going although only just. Heat proofing and cooling would be good thing and it will also solve the space issue in the back. AGM batteries are very heat sensitive and deep cycle units aren't that tolerant either, both have another issue and require special charging approach so a good quality charging controller is a must. I'll be honest I wouldn't mount a second battery in the back, may be a third one lol, but space is at the premium also the distance and cabling is another issue. Another way would be to have a portable deep cycle unit and removable when not in use with slow trickle charge via solar or mains. Cheers

Engine heat needs to be considered for sure especially with AGM units, I'm on my second aux battery while the starter battery is still OEM (only just). If one could be bothered with fabing some sort of heat shield with venting/cooling duct like the OEM has that would perhaps be the best solution. I wouldn't bother with "reinventing the wheel" and just get the Patrol suited ready made battery tray from various suppliers. No mods to car are requiredm in that case. I've got N70 MF as a second unit and ideally you want same size batteries fitted. Cheers

Glort, so which country of origin are they than? Slovenia or Slovakia? Two different countries may I humbly remind you. I'm currently in the hunt for glow plugs as mine aren't duing their job anymore. While as it is getting warmer ti si becoming easier to start the engine I'm just postponing the inevitable. Cheers

If you fit EGR plate than Dawes valve is a must and EGR is not beneficial to your engine. Taking control of VGT(variable geometry turbo) from engine ECU (via needle valve) will improve turbo spool up rate,remove turbo lag and correct chaotic boost curve/rise to more predictable and linear curve/rise which definately improves performance. Unfortunately there seems to be side effect on GU IV doing this, fuel economy will suffer slightly when cruising on the highway. The way to correct it, is to fit dual Dawes with 2 stage boost solenoid to have two settings, low (around 8 psi) for economy and cruising and high 14-16 psi for power/hills climbing. The 2 stage solenoid can be controlled manually or the control can be automated via throttle pedal position and additional relay/trigger so it can be set and forget and have no effect on EGTs especially if pressing the the accelerator too much in lower boost mode. Diesel chip will not control the above it will control/mod the fuelling rate which will affect the settings of the Dawes and needle valve so if fitting those prior chip installation the retune process might be required after the chip fitment. These things can complement each other. TBH I'm a little uneasy on installing a chip on the grenade. Cheers