Rumcajs

Well either there is another fuse blown somewhere, or the short caused some voltage spike somewhere with predictable consequence. Does MIL work and is glow plugs light/indicator briefly ON after the ignition is turned ON? If not than ECU is not being powered or worse. Regards

Does the NATS light go off with ignition ON? If it keeps flashing than it is that.

I'd wondered what else has gone down, does yours have immobilizer? You should see red light flashing on top of dashboard in rh corner when key is off.

G'day mate, Would care to specify your rig. Engine type, year model etc. Cheers

G'day bud, It is never too late to install NADS, especially taking control of the boost away from enginer ECU will transform the car. As for that fixing your occasional loss of power you might wanna check a few things first. Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak as that will retard turbocharger vanes and it will feel guttless for sure. This where boost and EGT gauge are great help to see what is going on. Simple test is to check with engine idling that the turbo actuator is fully up against the stop screw and not moving up/down in erratic fashion or staying fully down, that points to boost leak. Regards

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. Update the details about your rig as you progress through the mods. Regards

Fitting catch can doesn't do anything to affect the blow-by however it will keep the oil mist out of the intake which is essential to engine health. Regards

It definately is the case in SA. Utes are classed as commercial vehicles in there. Regards.

There is no definitive answer as a lot depends on the condfition and mileage of the motor. ZD30 are known to breath a little, major culprit is the amount of oil in the sump. Almost everyone overfills it. Nissan stated volume of 8.2 L is too much. It takes a while to drain all the old oil out so retail servicing job will always make the level way past the max. Do the measurement first thing before you start the engine in the morning, you gonna get a nasty shock from how far above the max the level will be. All that excess oil causes it to be pumped out of the breather. Regards

G'day mate welcome to the forum. Feel free to post the builts, trips etc experiences in relevant sections. Enjoy your stay. Regards

The best bet would be to cross reference with Bilstein models in Australia than use the part numbers to compare with US sourced units. So I'd be contacting local suppliers first. Regards

I'd drain the oil first. If it is really contaminated than you'll know. Patrol's transfer box is usually bullet proof. If the chain is worn it can be replaced. Its more noticable when in 4WD mode. You can change to sligthly thicker oil if in hotter areas as in colder places Nissan recommended ATF fluid instead of gearbox oil 75W-80. It is also recommended if you have auto hubs. What you are describing sounds like gearbox though especially because RD28 uses weaker/smaller gearbox than its other cousins ZD30 or TD42 which is more prone to failures. Regards

EGR blanking is better for your engine and worse for the enviroment. Your mechanic is partially right I'm not so sure about 25% claim. What causes EGTs to raise is over fueling not EGR blanking. So don't climb hills in too high gear and don't load the engine at low RPM. RD28 is high revving engine, bellow 2,500 RPM is virtualy gutless. Correct maintenance and repair methods are crucial on RD28. Regards.

G'day bud. This is difficult to answer simply due to all the option over the years but if you head over to "redbook" site and choose the Y61 year you can get a run down on options and equipment available on Y61. Regards

G'day mate, Welcome aboard and make yourself at home here. The forum has been a bit quiet lately, I suppose most members lurk here but post elsewhere. Anyway, feel free to share your trials and tribulations or yarns about your travels. Regards

Looks like a sweet setup. Enjoy. Regards

Did you try to compare the speeds with fast idle switch as well or does the difference continues across the RPM range? ON mine ECUTalk is reporting about ~200 RPM difference across the range (less) but not at idle. On ZD30 the tacho is directly controlled by ECU so either there is a bad connection, ground or actual tacho problem I'm not sure what the cause would be, unless ZD30 and TD42 use different calibration method for tacho and somehow there is misconfiguration or someone changed the instrument cluster from such vehicle. It could also means that ECU or pump module are reading the RPM speed at idle incorrectly. Normally engine sounds/runs smoothly at idle anything lower it will sound laboring almost feeling like a miss. Regards

That's a good find! Regards

Auto in GU is much better. A few cheap tweaks will make it even better. Regards

Hey Westy, welcome back man good to know you still here. Regards

Normally I'd say get one from Jaycar (Kemo 113) but in reality I'd just install momentary push button switch to break ground to the relay so the mad ECU glow time can be interrupted/operated by yourself if you can remember to do so when its a bit colder. Hold the switch for 5-7 secs and presto engine fires up no worries. Only needed when temperature is bellow 15° C that way you save the engine head and glow plugs. If you want to have it fully automated than just get the timer to do the countdown. Problem is Kemo has changed its original design so the original circuit I used doesn't work anymore, it needs a slight mod. See this thread ==> Regards

They're reasonably good unit but are only 4 speed autos. Some Nissan lunacy prevails so fitting line pressure solenoid resistor with appropriate value and modding lock up converter system (Nissan's own only locks above 80 km/h) it will be much more pleasant drive. Few guys have made the lock up clutch mod bulletproof with just parts from Jaycar and wiring. Well worth doing. It keeps its temperature lower and stops the oil from burning out. Probably the only downside is expensive oil change. Regards

OK, pre 2007 ZD30 or Di as it called (not sure why as it stands for direct injection and common rail is the same) will drink around 12.5 L per 100 km. Some have with a lot of tinkering managed to get it as low as 10.5 L. The best I have ever achieved was 11.2 L CrDs (common rail) are "hit and miss" affair some will sit on 11.5 L most at 14.0 and worse at 17-18 L GQ 4.2 L NA (naturally aspirated or non turbo) will drink around 10.5 l and it will run forever! It will be a slug but still I'm not in the hurry. GU's 4.2 L turbo will drink around 14.5 L All these figures quoted are for running normal urban/highway cycle, nothing has been taken in to account for off road use. Indeed my Simpson desert crossing took on average 18.5 L and I have recorded a 30 km trip in deep sand where it drank nearly 30 L so that 1 l per kilometer, that's road train territory LOL. Regards

You can buy it all prepacked or source it yourselves from various corners of the globe...LOL. Seriously, the guy with handle "Mudski" on nissanpatrol.com.au forum seems to sell the whole kit ==> Nissan parts, 4x4 accesories and NADS That's his online ebay store so have a look. Regards

ECU Talk software is free to download from their website ==> ECU Talk software Regards